From sweatshops to ‘It’s a Start’

Though it seems every man and his dog owns a pair of Nikes, not so long ago, the Nike image was synonymous with sweatshops and unethical manufacturing. So how does this brand rate today when it comes to its treatment of People, Planet, and Animals? How ethical and sustainable is Nike?

Nike sweatshops

Nike had been accused of using sweatshops to produce its sneakers and activewear since the 1970s, but it was only in 1991 when activist Jeff Ballinger published a report detailing the low wages and poor working conditions in Nike’s Indonesian factories that the sportswear brand came under fire. Soon after, it became the subject of an aggressive and sustained campaign by United Students Against Sweatshops. Nike was initially slow to respond—but under increasing pressure, it eventually made some changes by improving its monitoring efforts, raising the minimum age of workers, and increasing factory audits.

The brand has since earned plaudits far and wide for its efforts. A few years ago, Business of Fashion reported that Nike has successfully transformed its tarnished image to become a “recognized sustainability leader.” Morgan Stanley even ranked Nike “the most sustainable apparel and footwear company in North America for environmental and social performance, including its labour record.”

But is this actually the case?

A step backwards

Though Nike has successfully improved its reputation and has become the top-selling activewear brand globally, many of its practices are still problematic.

In 2017, Nike took a big step backwards, as the International Labor Rights Forum reported that the company had turned its back on its commitment to the Worker Rights Consortium (WRC). This move effectively blocked labour rights experts from independently monitoring Nike’s supplier factories. But in 2021, Nike received a 51-60% score in the Fashion Transparency Index (in the same scoring range as the previous year), showing it started going in the right direction again. It’s like Nike is in an on-again-off-again relationship with doing the right thing, begging for some stability.

Environmental impact

We rate Nike “It’s a Start” for the planet. Though Nike has made a few positive changes to its environmental practices and is a member of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, it still has a way to go before it can truly be called a sustainable brand. Nike uses some eco-friendly materials, including organic and recycled cotton and polyester, and has water reduction initiatives in its supply chain. The brand has also set a deadline to eliminate hazardous chemicals by 2025 and the good news is that it is on track to meet its target. But while Nike has set a science-based target to reduce greenhouse gas emissions generated from its operations and supply chain, there is no evidence it is on track to meet its target. 

Labour conditions

Nike’s labour rating is also “It’s a Start”. Though the brand has focused on female empowerment and inclusiveness in its advertising campaigns, the women who work for Nike—from factories to headquarters—are seemingly left out of this picture. In 2018, Nike was sued by two former female employees who accused the sneaker giant of creating a culture of gender discrimination and sexual harassment.

On a positive note, the company is Fair Labor Association (FLA) Workplace Code of Conduct certified. It also implements practices to encourage diversity and inclusion in some of its supply chain and discloses adequate policies to protect suppliers in its supply chain from the impacts of COVID-19 but not workers. 

The Foul Play report by the Clean Clothes Campaign and Collectif Ethique sur l’Etiquette shows just how far Nike has to go when it comes to living wages. It highlights the difference between the ever-increasing amount of money paid on sponsorships to sports stars and other marketing expenses, compared to the reduction of the share of the final price of your sports gear paid to workers in the supply chain. The report calls on both Nike and Adidas to commit to paying living wages across their supply chains by a specific date and other supporting action. Read more about living wages for garment workers here.

In previous ratings of Nike, we couldn’t find evidence the brand ensured payment of a living wage in most of its supply chain. When we reviewed the brand in February 2022 however, we found that Nike now ensures payment of a living wage in a small proportion of its supply chain, which is an improvement. Of course, it’s a tiny step in the right direction, and we urge Nike to expand this initiative to its entire supply chain.

Animal welfare

Nike does not use fur, angora, or other exotic animal hair or skin in its products, which is a step in the right direction. However, it does use leather, wool, and down feather without specifying sources. This lack of transparency is problematic as the welfare of animals and workers is unknown. Because of this, we have given the brand a rating of “Not Good Enough” for animal welfare and hope for more progress soon.

Overall Rating: It’s a Start

So, how sustainable is Nike? Overall, we rate Nike “It’s a Start” based on information from our own research. Though Nike has a few promising environmental measures in place, it’s clear that the company is not doing as much as it should and needs to make serious changes in most areas. With an annual revenue of over $44 billion in 2021, the sportswear giant can certainly afford it.

Good On You ratings consider hundreds of issues, and it is not possible to list every relevant issue in a summary of the brand’s performance. For more information, see our How We Rate page and our FAQs.

See the rating.

Good swaps

If you love the Nike vibe but prefer to support brands doing “Good” or “Great”, we’ve rounded up some more sustainable alternatives to Nike for you below.

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How does Adidas rate on Good On You in 2022?

The fashion industry is always evolving, and our ratings are evolving with it. We regularly update our methodology to stay on top of emerging issues—ensuring our ratings are relevant, useful, and timely, so you can always make the best choices for you.

Adidas has also evolved over the years. From humble beginnings in 1949 in Bavaria, Germany, sportswear giant Adidas (founded by Adolf Dassler, the brother of Puma founder Rudolf Dassler) has grown to be the second largest activewear brand in the world after arch-rival Nike. It is known and loved for its iconic Stan Smith sneakers, logo sweaters, tees, and sportswear, worn by athletes all over the world.

So, in order to reflect changes in our methodology, Adidas’s latest Fashion Transparency Index score, its CDP climate and water security scores, as well as some of the activewear brand’s recent news (including a greenwashing case), we thought it was high time we adjusted Adidas rating.

How does Adidas rate on Good On You in 2022? How ethical is Adidas?

Environmental impact

One change in our methodology has been to allocate extra points for science-based carbon emission reduction targets. But while Adidas has received points for setting a science-based target to reduce greenhouse gas emissions generated from its own operations and supply chain, it is unclear whether it is on track to meet its target. Science-based targets currently represent the highest standard when setting a greenhouse gas emissions target. To set them, Adidas and other brands will have allocated a large amount of resources, data collection, and time to provide the relevant information to demonstrate said target is aligned with a 1.5 or 2 degree global temperature reduction pathway. However, it is also important for brands to demonstrate how they intend to meet the targets and their current tangible progress.

Adidas also scored a B for its Carbon Disclosure Project climate and water questionnaires. Brands that we have rated “Good” this year for environment tend to be scoring A or A-.

While the brand does take some (limited) steps to prevent deforestation by avoiding raw materials which are listed on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species, it does fall short of publishing its own policies, particularly on materials linked to deforestation such as leather. We also found no evidence Adidas has policies to protect biodiversity in its supply chain, another key issue in our methodology update.

We found no evidence Adidas has policies to protect biodiversity in its supply chain, a key issue in our methodology update.

Adidas was also penalised for misleading consumers over environmental claims. ​​According to the French Jury de Déontologie Publicitaire (JDP), Adidas’ “Stan Smith Forever. 100% iconic, 50% recycled” ad broke advertising rules and misled consumers. The brand didn’t inform consumers of the total proportion of the shoe that is recycled and is misleading in its use of the “End plastic waste” logo. The JDP also noted that the claim of “50% recycled” gives shoppers the impression that 50% of the total material used in the sneaker is made of recycled materials, which isn’t true. The message is ultimately confusing to consumers and makes it hard to determine what’s legit and what’s not. A clear case of greenwashing.

As a result, Adidas’ environmental rating has decreased from “Good” to “It’s a Start”. The brand’s use of some eco-friendly materials including recycled materials and research with industry bodies on the impact of microplastics are not enough to compensate for the lost points discussed above.

Labour conditions

People are the backbone of the fashion industry and brands need to take tangible actions to protect workers. We changed our methodology to reward brands that provide fair and safe working conditions, over the ones that simply audit suppliers.

Adidas’s labour rating remains unchanged overall, and is still “It’s a Start”. But we’re keeping the pressure on the brand, which is falling behind on critical industry issues.

Adidas received a score of 51-60% in the Fashion Transparency Index, which is okay, but lower than its previous score of 61-70%. Adidas’ social auditing program has been accredited by the FLA Workplace Code of Conduct including all of the final stage of production. The brand also discloses policies to protect suppliers and workers in its supply chain from the impacts of COVID-19.

More worryingly, the area where Adidas has still a long way to go in 2022 is ensuring workers in its supply chain are paid a living wage. The Foul Play report by the Clean Clothes Campaign and Collectif Ethique sur l’Etiquette highlights the difference between the ever increasing amount of money paid on sponsorships to sports stars and other marketing expenses, compared to the reduction of the share of the final price of your sports gear paid to workers in the supply chain. Adidas has been awarded points for having a project to improve wages in a part of its supply chain and having a public commitment to improve wages in its supply chain, however we found no evidence Adidas ensures payment of a living wage in most of its supply chain.

The area where Adidas has still a long way to go in 2022 is ensuring workers in its supply chain are paid a living wage.

Since 2020, we have taken allegations of brands’ involvement in the human rights abuses taking place against Uighur people in China’s Xinjiang Province into account in our ratings and have penalised brands named in reports by various human rights and news organisations. While Adidas has made moves away from production in the region, and pledged to boycott cotton from Xinjiang, there’s a lot more to the issue. We know this is an important question for many of you and we’ll keep an eye on Adidas and other brands as the situation evolves.

Animal welfare

Adidas’ animal rating also went down, from “It’s a Start” to “Not Good Enough”. It has a formal animal welfare policy (an improvement from its last rating) aligned with Five Freedoms, but has no clear mechanisms to implement it. It does not use fur, exotic animal skin, exotic animal hair, or angora, but it is still using down. Adidas also still uses leather, including kangaroo leather, an emerging animal welfare issue, which has led the brand to be condemned in the US as a new bill was introduced to outlaw the sale of kangaroo body parts in the country.

Adidas states that it has a policy to source wool from non-mulesed sheep but does not provide evidence on how it is implemented. Plus, we found no evidence it traces any animal products to the first stage of production.

Overall rating: It’s a Start

So, how ethical is Adidas in 2022? Like other ratings that went down with our latest methodology update, Adidas’ overall rating has decreased from “Good” to “It’s a Start”. It’s worth noting that of the 3,500 brands that Good On You has rated, only five large brands have achieved an overall rating of “Good”. For those who have purchased Adidas based on our ratings, Adidas still remains one of the highest scoring large brands and is in the top 10%—particularly on environmental and labour issues—though we acknowledge it still has some way to go.

So this change in score doesn’t mean you should get rid of your Adidas clothes and kicks. On the contrary, cherish what you already own: as we know, keeping our clothes for longer is one of the most sustainable things we can do. This being said, you should take this new information into account if you’re considering buying something new from Adidas.

This change in score doesn’t mean you should get rid of your Adidas clothes and kicks. On the contrary, cherish what you already own.

While Adidas has shown that it is making progress in terms of sustainability and labour rights, at the end of the day the brand is still very much a part of the fast fashion industry. Producing huge quantities of garments (most of which are not made from sustainable materials) has disastrous effects not only on the environment, but also on workers who often have to work long hours for very little pay in order to reach production targets.

Adidas still has a way to go before it can be considered a truly ethical brand. It could start by ensuring its suppliers are paying living wages to workers. With $19.8 billion net sales in 2020, this should not be a problem.

Note that Good On You ratings consider hundreds of issues and it is not possible to list every relevant issue in a summary of the brand’s performance. For more information see our How We Rate page and our FAQs.

See the rating.

Shop Adidas Pre-Owned @ Vestiaire Collective.

If you want to shop more in line with your values, Good On You recommends you support brands that embrace a slow fashion model. We’ve rounded up a few of our favourite similar brands to Adidas.

We love the sustainable brands listed below, but they may not meet your specific needs right now. Maybe they’re out of your price range, or don’t stock your size. If you really need something and a product from Adidas is the best option, then you shouldn’t feel guilty about buying it. “It’s a Start” means just that—the brand is making a start. Adidas is already ahead of comparable brands. And if your options are Adidas or Lululemon, that is making little to no effort for people, the planet, and animals, Adidas is a clear winner. Progress over perfection.

You can also reach out to brands who you think need a little nudge in the right direction. If enough customers demand change, brands that truly care about their impact will have no choice but to respond in kind. Check out the “Your Voice” function on the app or slide into their DMs on social media to let them know what you think.

Good swaps

Here’s our list of “Good”, “Great”, and second hand alternatives to purchasing Adidas new

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H&M is making progress, but far from perfect

Swedish retailer H&M is one of the world’s most recognisable fast fashion brands. It’s the second largest retailer in the world, trailing just behind Inditex (the owner of Zara), and operates in 74 countries. H&M has long been the target of widespread concern about the impact of fast fashion on the environment and the workers who make our clothes. It claims to be moving towards more sustainable practices, but we have to be sure by asking the question: just how sustainable and ethical is H&M?

One step forward

H&M has set a science-based target to reduce its greenhouse gas emissions by 2030. It has also pledged to use 100% recycled or sustainable materials by 2030. While these pledges certainly represent good progress if they are delivered upon and it’s great that H&M is emphasising sustainability, they are only targets, and 2030 is still some time away. On top of that, while operating under a fast fashion business model, the brand’s impact on the planet will always be questionable.

One step back

While the company has made some progress for the environment, things aren’t looking so good on the labour rights front. Following the Rana Plaza disaster in 2013, H&M joined the Bangladesh Fire Safety Accord, successfully working with other brands and labour unions to address health and safety issues in 100s of factories. But they also promised to pay 850,000 workers a living wage by 2018, a promise they have spectacularly failed to meet. Also in 2018, factories that supply H&M were named in reports by Global Labour Justice detailing abuse of female garment workers. Clearly, there is still a long way to go.

So how does H&M rate on each of the three key areas of environmental impact, labour conditions, and animal welfare?

Environmental impact

H&M has taken some positive steps to reduce its environmental impact. The brand offers a recycling program where you can return clothes from any brand in-store, and as we’ve seen, it has set some positive targets in its Sustainability Report. It uses renewable energy for part of its supply chain and has a policy approved by CanopyStyle to prevent deforestation of ancient and endangered forests. H&M also uses some eco-friendly materials like organic cotton and recycled polyester in some products. The brand was also among the first to stock a “Conscious” sustainable fashion collection in its stores.

On the other hand, the majority of the materials it uses are not eco-friendly, and the brand still operates under an unsustainable, fast fashion business model. And while it has set a science-based target to reduce greenhouse gas emissions generated from its own operations and supply chain, there is no evidence it is on track to meet its target. For these reasons, we give H&M a score of “It’s a Start” for the environment.

Labour conditions

H&M has made some improvements on its labour policies in recent years, but overall its workers are not treated ethically enough, which is why it has received an “It’s a Start” rating for people, too. It received a score of 61-70%% in the Fashion Transparency Index, and it publishes detailed information about its supplier policies, audit, and remediation processes. It also publishes a detailed list of suppliers in the final stage of production, as well as information about forced labour, gender equality, or freedom of association.

While the brand does have a project to improve wages, there is no evidence it ensures payment of a living wage across its entire supply chain, despite promises to the contrary. On another bad note, almost none of H&M’s supply chain is certified by labour standards which ensure worker health and safety, living wages, or other labour rights. That means not enough of its facilities have collective bargaining or the right for workers to make a complaint. With the pandemic ongoing since 2020, we have learned H&M discloses some policies to protect suppliers and workers in its supply chain from the impacts of COVID-19, but implementation is uncertain.

Animal welfare

H&M is heading in the right direction for animals by having a formal animal welfare policy aligned with Five Freedoms and tracing some animal products to the first stage of production. It uses wool from non-mulesed sheep, and down accredited by the Responsible Down Standard. It also banned the use of fur, angora, and exotic animal skins. It does, however, use leather and exotic animal hair, and claims that it will be fully traceable and certified to a credible standard by 2025. Until then, it is at least tracing some animal products to the first stage of production. Thanks to this progress, H&M’s rating has risen to “It’s a Start” for the animals.

Overall rating: It’s a Start

So, how ethical is H&M? We rate H&M “It’s a Start” based on our own research and information from the Fashion Transparency Index: you can read more in our post about what our “It’s a Start” rating really means. Despite the fact that H&M is setting sustainability targets and has adopted some positive practices and policies across the board, it is still the world’s second biggest producer of fashion products designed to be worn just a few times and then discarded. Also note that Good On You ratings consider hundreds of issues and it is not possible to list every relevant issue in a summary of the brand’s performance. For more information see our How We Rate page and our FAQs.

At the end of the day, H&M is still very much a part of the unsustainable fast fashion industry. Its promotion of “disposable” fashion and constant rotations of new trends and products has a huge environmental impact. An increasing amount of cheap clothing ends up in landfill after a few wears due to these reasons.

The clothing manufacturing process regularly involves the use of toxic dyes, solvents, and pesticides, is responsible for significant carbon emissions, and uses much of the world’s fresh water and land resources. While this is an industry-wide problem, there are more clothes pumped through the system by the fast fashion brands—and it’s not clear the sustainability initiatives of H&M are enough to compensate.

So, while those cheap price tags may be tempting, they are often a good indicator of the poor quality of the materials. They also highlight that the people making those clothes are working in conditions that, while improving, are not where they should be.

See the rating.

H&M offers a “Conscious” collection, but we recommend investing your hard-earned dollars in clothes that are not only ethical and sustainable, but are also timeless in style, will last you a lifetime, and are made by brands that are designed to leave a light footprint on the earth from the very beginning. Here are some brands rated “Good” or “Great” by us.

Good swaps

Ethical alternatives to H&M

The post How Ethical Is H&M? appeared first on Good On You.

NOTE: This brand’s rating is under review and subject to change. The article will be updated soon to reflect any changes in scoring. This article is based on the Cotton On rating published in January 2022.

Is Cotton On sustainable or ethical?

Australian brand Cotton On is known and loved around the world for its fun and affordable clothing and accessories. But just how is it doing when it comes to its environmental impact, the treatment of its workers, and animal welfare? How ethical is Cotton On?

The Cotton On Group includes brands such as Rubi Shoes, Factorie, and Supré. According to the Cotton On Manifesto, the company is “focused on building an ethical, sustainable, and profitable business and ensuring we have a positive impact on our people, the community, the planet and all those we connect with.” But does this translate into real-world action? Let’s take a look.

Environmental impact

Cotton On doesn’t publish sufficient relevant information about its environmental policies to achieve a high rating, and we have a sneaking suspicion why. We found no evidence it reduces its carbon and other greenhouse gas emissions in its supply chain, that it has taken meaningful action to reduce or eliminate hazardous chemicals, or that it minimises textile waste.

As a fast fashion brand, Cotton On produces huge quantities of cheaply made garments, most of which are made from unsustainable materials including conventional cotton, viscose, and polyester. Manufacturing these materials consumes vast amounts of energy and water, not to mention the use of hazardous chemicals. Not only do these chemicals have a detrimental effect on workers and the surrounding air, soil, waterways, and communities, but they have also been found to affect those who end up wearing the clothes.

As a shopper, you have the right to know how a brand’s production practices impact the environment. We strongly recommend Cotton On gets its act together and publicly provides information about its environmental policies. For all these reasons, we rated Cotton On’s impact on the environment “Not Good Enough”.

Labour conditions

Cotton On also rates “Not Good Enough” for workers. The brand has a Code of Conduct that covers all of the ILO Four Fundamental Freedoms principles and audits some of its supply chain, including all of the final stage of production.

However, we found no evidence Cotton On ensures payment of a living wage in its supply chain or that it has initiatives to prevent human trafficking. In addition, the brand doesn’t disclose any policies or safeguards to protect suppliers and workers in its supply chain from the impacts of COVID-19.

Animal welfare

We found no evidence Cotton On has a policy to minimise the suffering of animals or that it traces any animal product to the first stage of production. And while the brand does not use fur, angora, down, exotic animal skin and hair, it still uses leather and wool. This is problematic as the welfare of leather workers and animals are unknown and therefore cannot be guaranteed. Which is why we rated Cotton On “Not Good Enough” for its impact on animals as well.

Overall rating: Not Good Enough

So, how ethical is Cotton On? Cotton On is rated “Not Good Enough” based on information from our own research. Despite its declarations of sustainability and ethical practice, Cotton On still has a long way to go before it can truly back up its claims. Though those cheap price tags can be very tempting, it’s important to remember that there’s a reason why they’re so cheap in the first place. Investing in a few, well-made pieces that will last a lifetime—or better yet, buying second hand—are much better alternatives for the environment and your bank account.

Note that Good On You ratings consider 100s of issues, and it is not possible to list every relevant issue in a summary of the brand’s performance. For more information, see our How We Rate page and our FAQs.

See the rating.

Here are a few of our favourite eco-friendly alternatives to Cotton On, that are implementing ethical and sustainable practices when it comes making beautiful, timeless pieces.

Good swaps

Sustainable alternatives to Cotton On

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The realities of fast fashion outweigh convenience

It sells over 850 different brands, and also makes its own range of affordable clothing and accessories. But how ethical is the ASOS private range, and should you be looking elsewhere for your online shopping fix?

While the prospect of cheap and cute fashion delivered to your doorstep is exciting, the low price tags often belie the true cost of fast fashion: questionable labour policies and production processes that are detrimental to the environment. So let’s take a look at the impact of ASOS on people, the planet, and animals and answer: how ethical is ASOS?

Environmental impact

We rated ASOS’s environmental impact “Not Good Enough”. The brand has made a public commitment and has set an intensity target to be a net zero emissions company by 2030, but there is no evidence it has set an absolute target. The ASOS brand uses some eco-friendly materials in its clothing, but there is no evidence it minimises textile waste when manufacturing its products. In addition to this, we found no evidence ASOS implements water reduction initiatives in most of its supply chain.

In 2010, ASOS introduced a collection called the “Responsible Edit”—a selection of clothing, accessories, and beauty products marketed for a lower environmental impact. ASOS private label clothing comprises about a quarter of this collection with pieces made in conjunction with fair labour partners in Kenya, and some lower impact fabrics like Tencel.

This is certainly not good enough for such a large company. It’s a sign that customer demand for ethical products is growing, and the company is responding. However, this collection only accounts for a small percentage of the total items made by ASOS: the rest of the range isn’t covered by strong policies that look to reduce the impact of the production stages. “Eco collections” by major brands are often signs of greenwashing.

Labour conditions

ASOS’ labour rating is also “Not Good Enough”. Almost none of its supply chain is certified by labour standards which ensure worker health and safety, living wages, or other labour rights, and it received a score of 41-50% in the Fashion Transparency Index. ASOS publishes a detailed list of suppliers in the final stage of production and some information about the second stage of production, as well as some policies to protect suppliers and workers in its supply chain from the impacts of COVID-19. The brand likely publishes information about its supplier policies, audits, and remediation processes, and may be publishing some information about forced labour, gender equality, or freedom of association. The most problematic issue, however, is that we found no evidence it ensures payment of a living wage in its supply chain when it can certainly afford it.

Animal welfare

ASOS rates “It’s a Start” for animal welfare: it has a formal animal welfare policy aligned with Five Freedoms, does not use angora, fur, down, exotic animal skin or hair, and sources wool from non-mulesed sheep. Even if ASOS has committed to eliminating some animal products by a set date, it does still use leather without specifying sources.

Overall rating: Not Good Enough

So, how ethical and sustainable is ASOS? ASOS is rated “Not Good Enough” overall. Some progress has been made by implementing measures to reduce carbon emissions; banning fur and other animal-based materials, and offering a more conscious collection. However, much more can still be done. ASOS needs to improve in all areas to achieve a higher score.

Note that Good On You ratings consider hundreds of issues, and it is not possible to list every relevant issue in a summary of the brand’s performance. For more information, see our How We Rate page and our FAQs.

See the rating.

So, our take? If you’ve got an ASOS habit that just won’t give, check out the Responsible Edit for better choices. Or even better, try ASOS stocked brands that we rate highly, such as People Tree.

Good swaps

If you’re trying to break up with fast fashion, why not have a look at these “Good” and “Great” alternatives to ASOS.

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Irish fast fashion chain Primark is known and loved around the world for its range of on-trend clothing, footwear, accessories, and homewares for men, women, and children at astonishingly low prices.

But does its super cheap price tags belie larger costs to the environment, workers, and animals? We investigated for you to answer the question—how ethical is Primark?

Environmental impact

First, the good news. Primark is a member of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition. It has been using paper bags instead of plastic bags since 2002, and has also introduced initiatives to reduce waste and packaging. In the US, Primark has partnered with the charity Delivering Good, in which stores donate unsold items to those in need. Since 2010, European Primark stores have donated their unsold clothing and buying samples to the charity Newlife, which provides support for disabled and terminally ill children and their families. The brand also committed to eliminate hazardous chemicals in its products—a commitment it made for 2020 as part of the Greenpeace Detox campaign—but there is no evidence it is on track to meet its target.

Primark has started to look at its climate impact by measuring and reporting on the greenhouse gas emissions generated both from its own operations and some of its supply chain. However, it has minimal published greenhouse gas emissions reduction initiatives beyond energy efficiency in stores and has not set a reduction target. This is surprising given that its parent company, Associated British Foods, has set a target one for one of its subsidiaries, British Sugar.

Primark’s environmental initiatives are a step in the right direction, but they just aren’t enough to minimise the brand’s huge carbon footprint as a fast fashion chain, which is why it receives a score of “Not Good Enough” for the planet. In order to improve its score in this area, Primark needs to start using eco-friendly materials in its products, set specific reduction targets in terms of greenhouse gas emissions and wastewater, and implement adequate policies and initiatives for resource management and disposal.

Labour conditions

Primark has taken some positive steps towards improving its ethical practice when it comes to workers, but there is still much room for improvement. The brand is a signatory to the Bangladesh Accord on Fire and Building Safety and the Cotton Pledge, which commits to boycotting Uzbekistan cotton. Primark is also a member of the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) and has adopted their Code of Conduct. However, the code does not ensure payment of a  living wage.

On its “Primark Cares” page, Primark states that before a factory is approved by the brand, it is vetted to internationally-recognised standards set out in its Code of Conduct. However, although factories at the final stage of production are audited at least once a year to monitor their compliance to the Code of Conduct, it is unclear if the brand does the same for the first and second stages of production.

Though the brand has taken some positive steps, the fact that Primark, like so many other fast fashion brands, does not own its own factories and outsources manufacturing to its suppliers means that despite all that talk of ethical practice and auditing, it does not control its supply chain and can therefore effectively shrug off any responsibility for factory workers and any labour issues that may be occurring. On top of that, it received a score of 31-40% in the Fashion Transparency Index, and it discloses inadequate policies or safeguards to protect suppliers and workers in its supply chain from the impacts of COVID-19. For these reasons, we have given Primark a score of “Not Good Enough” for people, too.

Primark can improve its score in this area by being more transparent when it comes to its suppliers and auditing practices, as well as paying its workers a living wage and improving health and safety in factories. With the #GoTransparent campaign specifically targeting the brand along with five other major players in fast fashion, Primark won’t have a choice but to comply if it wishes to uphold its good name.

Animal welfare

Primark is a member of the Leather Working Group, which promotes sustainable practices in the leather industry, and does not use fur, angora, down feather, or exotic animal skin or hair in its products. However, it does use leather and wool without stating its sources, and there is no evidence it traces any animal product to the first stage of production. This is problematic for both our furry friends and factory workers as their wellbeing cannot be guaranteed. Primark could improve its score in this area by stating where its leather and wool are sourced from so consumers can make an informed decision. Until then, it receives “Not Good Enough” here, too.

Overall rating: Not good enough

Overall, we rate Primark as “Not Good Enough” based on our own research. Primark has implemented a number of initiatives to reduce waste and increase energy efficiency in its stores and factories, has signed the Bangladesh Accord and Cotton Pledge, and has adopted the ETI Code of Conduct, which are all commendable steps—but the brand still has a long way to go. Note that Good On You ratings consider hundreds of issues, and it is not possible to list every relevant issue in a summary of the brand’s performance. For more information, see our How We Rate page and our FAQs.

Ultimately, the fact that Primark’s business model is based on creating huge amounts of short-lived, poorly-made fast fashion products inherently contradicts the values of ethical fashion and spells nothing but bad news for the environment, workers, and animals.

See the rating.

So instead of buying cheap, poorly-made clothes that are costly to the environment and garment workers, why not give Primark a miss and invest your hard-earned dollars in one of these well-made, ethical brands rated “Good” or “Great”?

Good swaps

See below for some “Good” and “Great” alternatives to Primark. If affordability is a concern for you, why not check out our article that answers the question “is ethical clothing really expensive?“. For those of you living week to week who can’t afford to pay more up front—we get it! Everyone is on their own journey, and there is nothing wrong with shopping from more affordable mainstream brands that are at least making a start, like Marks & Spencer or H&M.

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If you’re a conscious consumer who feels guilty about the waste typically involved in this holiday, don’t worry. Spooky season can still be your favourite with a few eco-friendly adjustments. Rather than buying mass-produced products that take a lot of resources to manufacture, you can invest in quality costumes and decorations⁠—or even make them yourself⁠—so that they last for years rather than just one day.

Depending on where you are in the world, Halloween might still be a little different this year, but whether you’re celebrating Halloween with a small number of friends or hosting a spooky online reunion, here are our top tips for having a sustainable Halloween.

Halloween costumes, done sustainably

The biggest carbon footprint from Halloween comes from the millions of poor-quality, fast fashion costumes that are mass-produced every year. Most are made from unsustainable materials such as polyester and conventional cotton and are manufactured in countries that have poor labour standards. Worst of all, many often don’t last more than a day before they start falling apart.

What is the most sustainable Halloween costume? The one you already have. Look at what’s in your closet, ask friends and family if you can borrow a costume, or just reuse and update the same costume every year: not only is it better for the environment, it’s also better for your wallet. Plus, you won’t have to spend hours on the Internet and Pinterest looking for Halloween costume inspiration.

Costume shops hire out a huge selection of amazing costumes that are better quality than any fast fashion options. You can also check out your local thrift store or vintage boutique to find some great pieces or fabrics that you can repurpose into a DIY Halloween costume. Another fun option inspired by a clothing swap is to host a costume exchange (only if your local authorities allow gatherings).

Eco-friendly decorations

Let’s start with the traditional Halloween pumpkin. We recommend buying a pumpkin from a local grower or farmer’s market, and carving it out to make a classic Jack O’ Lantern, keeping the seeds and flesh to eat later: you can roast the seeds, and make pumpkin soup or even muffins with the flesh. For southern hemisphere readers, pumpkins aren’t in season in spring, so why not skip the imported pumpkins in the supermarket and carve out a watermelon instead?

But what happens to pumpkins come November? In the United Kingdom, it’s predicted that over 8 million pumpkins will be tossed into the trash after Halloween. In fact, in a report by Hubbub and Knorr, 60% of people who bought pumpkins to carve out, reported they do not use the pumpkin after carving and instead throw it out. But did you know there are many ways you can recycle and reuse your pumpkin after spooky season? As mentioned earlier, you can cook with the seeds and flesh, but you can also fill your pumpkin with seeds to feed the birds or wildlife or check with your local zoos and organisations (like community gardens and animal shelters) to see if they take leftover pumpkins. And if these ideas don’t work for you, you can always compost your pumpkin and plant the seeds to grow your own pumpkins for next year. That’s a win-win.

When it comes to other decorations, why not make your own? You can use cardboard to make a skeleton or tombstones, make spiders out of black pipe cleaners, create ghosts out of old sheets, and repurpose your toilet paper rolls to make spooky (and kind of adorable) bats. You can even put bloody handprints on your windows using red poster paint. Still stuck? Here are 42 cheap and easy ideas for DIY Halloween decorations.

If you do buy decorations, ensure that they are reusable and good quality, so you can use them year after year. And when it comes to candles, be sure to light up your pumpkins (or watermelons) with soy-based or beeswax candles, not paraffin-based ones.

Instead of using a plastic pumpkin bucket to hold treats in, why not use something you already have? You can use a wicker basket, a regular bucket, or even an old bag or pillowcase that you can decorate and use every year. Throwing a Halloween party? Make sure you avoid single-use plastic plates, cups, and cutlery, and use regular dishes and utensils, or opt for biodegradable or recyclable ones instead.

Don’t forget about second hand options. Check out your local vintage stores or thrift shops for creepy decorations such as candelabras, lanterns, old apothecary bottles and jars, mirrors, and dolls. No cheap mass-produced versions can beat the real thing.

Sustainable Halloween treats

Some of the biggest candy manufacturers in the world including Cadbury, Nestlé, Hershey’s, and Mars have a huge impact on the environment. They massively contribute to deforestation and species extinction due to their demand for sugar, palm oil, and cocoa beans. These companies have also been found to source their cocoa from countries such as the Ivory Coast and Ghana that use child labour or slave labour to harvest cocoa beans. On top of all that, a huge amount of energy and resources go into making candy—not to mention all the non-recyclable wrapping it’s all packaged up in.

So why not avoid all those individually-wrapped lollies, and make some sweet treats yourself? Cookies always go down well with kids (and adults, let’s be honest), and you can decorate them to make them Halloween themed. Here’s a recipe for vegan Halloween sugar cookies that would be a great option for anyone with milk, egg, or nut allergies—and, of course, vegans. Some other tasty treats you could make include Carob Almond Freezer Fudge, homemade Rolo Balls, or Peanut ‘Better’ Balls. Instead of wrapping them in plastic or cellophane, you could put them in paper bags decorated with Halloween-themed images, or just hand them straight over. They won’t last long.

If making your own treats is too time-consuming, there are a number of ethical alternatives to regular candy brands. Look for products with independent certifications such as USDA Organic, CERES, Australian Certified Organic, NASAA Certified Organic, and Fairtrade. Keep in mind, however, that these certifications don’t necessarily mean that the entire supply chain involved in making that candy is both socially and environmentally sound. If you do choose to buy regular candy, just limit the amount you give to each child. Buying only what you need is better for the environment and for the kids.

So there you have it. With these tips, us conscious consumers don’t have to miss out on all the spooky fun. Happy Green Halloween.

The post The Ultimate Guide to Having a Green Halloween appeared first on Good On You.

Picture this: You’re standing in front of the mirror in your silk nightie and lambskin ugg boots, putting together an outfit for the day ahead. Do you wear the beige suede skirt with the grey cashmere sweater? With the black leather ankle boots and matching leather tote? Is it cold enough for a coat? Do you pick the trench with the fur trim or the woollen pea coat?

While it’s no secret these materials come off the backs of sentient beings, this fact can be lost in clever marketing devices and the appeal of the finished product. At Good On You, we rate brands based on their treatment of animals as one of the three key pillars of People, Planet, and Animals. We identify the use of fur, angora, down feather, shearling, Karakul, and exotic animal skin and hair. We also consider wool use, including ‘mulesing’ and whether and how the brand uses leather. A brand can only achieve a ‘Great’ score for animals if it is entirely vegan! 

Let’s take a look at some of the critical issues concerning animal welfare in the fashion industry so you can match your outfit to your values. And while this article focuses on animal welfare, be sure to check out each material’s guide to see its impact on the Planet and People, too, so you can make your own informed decision when you shop.

Leather

Leather has long been a staple in our wardrobes. However, we often overlook the animals whose skins become our jackets and shoes. Every year large numbers of animals, including cattle, pigs, goats, sheep, crocodiles, snakes, stingrays, seals, emus, kangaroos, horses and more, are killed for their skins. Many of these animals are factory-farmed, which can involve extreme crowding and confinement, deprivation, and painful treatment at the hands of workers. Not to mention the impact working in the animal supply chain has on humans, too!

The majority of the world’s leather comes from India and China, both of which lack animal welfare legislation. However, even in nations such as Australia, animals raised for leather do not have the same legal protection as pets, meaning they are often subject to painful procedures and even abuse. Contrary to popular belief, leather is a profitable resource, not simply a by-product of the meat industry.

What are some ethical alternatives?

• Buy second hand or recycled leather. Hit up your nearest op-shop or vintage markets to find some sweet second hand threads. Not only is vintage leather likely to be of higher quality than fast fashion leather products, buying second hand is a great way to minimise your carbon footprint!
• Buy vegan leather. Just keep in mind that not all vegan leather is created equally. Much vegan leather, or ‘pleather,’ is made from Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) plastic, which Greenpeace lists as one of the most environmentally damaging plastics. PU, while still plastic-based, has a lower environmental footprint than some animal leathers. Plant-based materials like Pinatex (made from pineapple leaf fibres), while still in the early stages of development, could be game-changers when it comes to eco-friendly vegan leather alternatives. For now, check out these ethical, sustainable vegan fashion brands.

Here’s our in-depth guide on what to look out for when deciding whether to purchase leather products.

Wool

Wool is considered a winter wardrobe staple, but it isn’t always produced under ethical conditions. There are several concerns regarding animal welfare in the wool industry, including pain and discomfort caused to the sheep by their handling and living conditions. PETA has revealed instances of mistreatment of sheep in Australia (which produces much of the world’s merino wool). Many Australian sheep undergo a painful and largely ineffective procedure called mulesing, in which flesh is cut from the animal’s buttocks, often without anaesthetic. This procedure is used to prevent flystrike, which is a common problem in the hot Australian climate.

What are some ethical alternatives?

• Buy second hand wool. There’s no shortage of cute vintage sweaters and woollen coats in op-shops and vintage boutiques. With the proper care, quality woollen coats will last decades.
• Buy wool alternatives. Materials such as certified organic cotton, hemp, linen, and some certified semi-synthetics like TENCEL® Lyocell are gentler on the environment and 100% cruelty-free!
• Buy from brands that use non-mulesed or recycled wool. The Good On You app rewards brands that have pledged to use non-mulesed or recycled wool in their products, including People Tree (UK), A.BCH (AU), and Christy Dawn (US), to name just a few.

Fur & exotic animal skins

Animals including rabbits, minks, goats, foxes, crocodiles, alpacas, llamas, kangaroos, and even dogs and cats are coveted by the fashion industry. Their fur and skins are used to make various ‘luxurious’ clothing items. Fur also includes the fibres cashmere and angora, which are sourced from the Cashmere goat and the Angora rabbit.

Though the 90s saw fur become taboo for a short time due to PETA’s successful celebrity-endorsed campaign, it has recently seen a comeback on catwalks and red carpets. And while you’re more likely to come across faux fur than real fur in the average fast fashion store, some major brands such as Missguided have been found to have mislabelled garments made out of real fur as faux fur.

Animals Australia found that “85% of the fur industry’s skins come from animals raised in battery cages in fur farms, where animals are deprived of quality of life.” In fur farms, animals are often killed through beating, gassing, and electrocution. It is even common practice in China to skin animals alive. The World Society for the Protection of Animals revealed that up to 80% of fur is produced in China, which has no animal welfare legislation and protection laws. Fur that is not made in fur farms is obtained either by trapping or killing wild animals. Though often considered a more ‘natural’ and ‘humane’ method of acquiring fur, trapping is highly distressing and painful for animals.

What are some ethical alternatives?

• Buy second hand or recycled fur. If you love the look and feel of fur but don’t want to support the horrors of the modern fur industry, there’s often a decent range of pre-loved fur coats at vintage boutiques and markets.
• Buy faux fur. But we recommend that you avoid fast fashion faux fur garments, as they are often made from non-renewable, petroleum-based products, including polyester and nylon. Look for faux fur alternatives crafted from recycled or other sustainable materials, like upcycled denim!

Down

Down feather is prized by the fashion industry for its low carbon footprint and its ability to insulate against freezing temperatures. However, to gather down, feathers are collected from ducks, geese, and swans either while the birds are still alive or after they have been killed. Because farmers have to meet large demands, and because feathers grow back like fur or hair, most down is obtained by live-plucking. Live-plucking is a very painful process that sometimes causes the birds to accidentally break their limbs as they struggle to escape.

PETA estimate that a single farm can undertake close to 250 000 live pluckings a year. They also found that some suppliers certified by the Responsible Down Standard (RDS) are still sourcing live-plucked down. More concerning is that up to 80% of the world’s down is produced in China, a country which, again, currently has no animal welfare laws in place.

What are some ethical alternatives?

• Avoid live-plucked down. Some brands such as Patagonia have vowed not to use live-plucked down, instead choosing to use only recycled or traceable down from birds that have not been force-fed or live-plucked.
• Buy down alternatives. Ethical brands such as Culthread offer a range of cosy vegan jackets and coats made for the chilliest of climates.

Silk

Silk has been revered as a luxury for thousands of years. Silk is made up of the threads that form the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori). The threads are extracted by boiling the cocoon with the pupae still inside. This method can be controversial. While Good On You does not currently rate brands based on their use of silk, for those who believe all animals, large or small, should not suffer for our consumption, it is worth factoring into your purchasing decisions.

What are some ethical alternatives?

• Look into silk alternatives. Two exciting up-and-coming fabrics are Citrus Fibre and Vegan Spider silk. For more commercially available options, things like recycled satin and bamboo lyocell work well to mimic the look and feel of silk minus the cruelty.
• Buy Ahimsa (Peace) silk. Aptly named, ‘peace silk’ is made from a silkworm’s cocoon after it has undergone metamorphosis and left the cocoon as a moth. As the cocoon ruptures, the long, singular silk strand is broken up into smaller strands, which must be woven back together to create premium quality silk. However, there are even some ethical concerns with peace silk, and there is no regulatory guidelines or certification for its production.
• Buy from ethical brands. If you buy silk, choose brands dedicated to sustainability and ethical practice, like The Ethical Silk Company.

Animal cruelty in fashion is enabled when there is a demand for the product, so when shopping for a new item for your wardrobe, why not buy cruelty-free? The free Good On You app and Directory are great tools for finding brands that share your values.

Want to know more about the issues Good On You rates brands on? Check out our articles on the impacts of fast fashion on the environment and garment workers, or head to our In The Know selection for more!

The post Fashion and Animal Welfare: Everything You Should Know Before You Buy appeared first on Good On You.

American label Free People is known for its range of bohemian clothes and accessories it says conveys an image of ‘femininity, courage, and spirit.’

Owned by retail giant URBN—which also owns Anthropologie and Urban Outfitters—Free People’s carefully curated aesthetic clearly resonates with its young female customer base, operating in a whopping 1,400 speciality stores around the world. Kaia Gerber and Hailey Bieber have even both been spotted wearing one of the brand’s fleece jackets.

But does its free-spirited image align with its ethics? How ethical is Free People?

How ethical is Free People?

Environmental Impact

While Free People has made some progress when it comes to reducing its impact on the Planet, there is still room for improvement, which is why its environmental rating is ‘Not Good Enough’.

Free People’s parent company URBN has taken some steps to lower its carbon output across its portfolio. These include the promotion of reusable shopping bags, using energy efficient LED lighting in stores, improving fuel efficiency in transport, and renewable energy being installed in part of the brand’s direct operations.

However, Free People uses few eco-friendly materials and has made no commitments to reduce direct and indirect carbon emissions. There is also no evidence it’s taking adequate steps to address hazardous chemicals in its supply chain, or that it manages water usage and wastewater.

Whilst the brand has the potential to incorporate more eco-friendly materials, its reliance on a fast fashion model ultimately renders it unsustainable. By following fleeting trends and producing huge amounts of resource-intensive clothes, it’s hard to see how Free People can become more eco-friendly without embracing a different business model.

Labour Conditions

We also rated Free People’s impact on People ‘Not Good Enough’. To start with, none of Free People’s supply chain is certified by labour standards which ensure worker health and safety, living wages, or other labour rights. The brand received a score of 11-20% in the Fashion Transparency Index, which shows it should be more transparent about its practices.

On its website, Free People states that suppliers must conduct business in accordance with the law. This includes remaining free from the use of child or slave labour, discrimination and compliance with wage and hour requirements, and health, safety, and environmental laws. But there is no evidence that workers are being paid a living wage.

And whilst Free People states some of its supply chain is independently audited—including with the use of unannounced audits—it is unclear how often or which part of the supply chain is audited. What’s more, the brand likely publishes some information about its supplier policies and audits, but it doesn’t publish a list of suppliers or information about forced labour, gender equality, or freedom of association. The welfare of workers cannot be guaranteed if a brand cannot trace all of its supply chain.

Finally, Free People doesn’t disclose any policies or safeguards to protect suppliers and workers in its supply chain from the impacts of COVID-19.

A good start would include paying a living wage and releasing its list of suppliers to the public, as well as improving efforts to trace all of its supply chain.

Animal Welfare

Although Free People has made some progress for animal welfare, there is still a way to go before it can achieve a higher rating.

While Free People went angora-free in 2016 as part of URBN’s decision to stop using angora across its portfolio, the brand still uses leather, wool, and exotic animal hair from unspecified sources. Unfortunately, the welfare of both the animals and workers cannot be guaranteed if the brand cannot trace the source of its products.

Free People’s animal rating is ‘Not Good Enough’. Free People could improve its rating by tracing the sources of its animal-derived materials, or even better, by not using them in products altogether.

Overall Rating: Not Good Enough

Free People has taken some positive measures, but it’s simply not pulling its weight when it comes to protecting the planet, people, and animals. If the brand hopes to become more ethical in the future, it could start by setting concrete goals to reduce its environmental impact and provide more information on its labour practices and supply chain. We hope that Free People will start working towards truly embodying the progressive, bohemian values that it claims to represent. Perhaps its parent company URBN, which has already surpassed $4B in revenue so far this year, can help it achieve this vision.

Note that Good On You ratings consider hundreds of issues, and it is not possible to list every relevant issue in a summary of the brand’s performance. For more information, see our How We Rate page and our FAQs.

See the rating.

Luckily, we found 10 ethical and sustainable alternatives to Free People!

Ethical alternatives to Free People

Our favourite Good Swaps for Free People

The post How Ethical Is Free People? appeared first on Good On You.

What is viscose?

Viscose is often touted as a sustainable alternative to cotton or polyester and is popular in the fashion industry as a cheaper and more durable alternative to silk. It’s often used to create those drapey summer dresses, skirts, soft blouses, and synthetic velvet. But viscose isn’t just found in our clothes—it’s also used in the manufacturing of upholstery, bedding, carpets, cellophane, and even sausage casing!

A brief history of viscose

Viscose rayon has a truly European story. French scientist and industrialist Hilaire de Chardonnet (1839-1924) is credited with inventing the first commercial viscose fibre, as a cheaper alternative to silk. But the fabric was so flammable it was quickly taken off the market until a safer process was developed by the German Bemberg Company. In 1892, British scientists Charles Frederick Cross, Edward John Bevan, and Clayton Beadle discovered and patented the production process, and by 1905 the first commercial viscose rayon was on the market.

How is viscose made?

Viscose is derived from the ‘cellulose’ or wood pulp from fast-growing, regenerative trees such as eucalyptus, beech, and pine, as well as plants such as bamboo, soy, and sugar cane. This cellulose material is then dissolved in a chemical solution to produce a pulpy viscous substance, which is then spun into fibres that can then be made into threads.

So, is viscose sustainable?

As a plant-based fibre, viscose is not inherently toxic or polluting. However, because of the growing fast fashion industry, much of the viscose on the market today is manufactured cheaply using energy, water, and chemically-intensive processes that have devastating impacts on workers, local communities, and the environment.

There are two main areas of concern when it comes to the production of viscose, and they are the source of the wood pulp and how it is turned into a usable fabric.

The wood pulp that viscose is made from is manufactured by treating it with chemicals, which is then filtered and spun into a fine thread. This is a highly polluting process and releases many toxic chemicals into the air and waterways surrounding production plants. Carbon disulphide, one of the chemicals used, is another toxic ingredient which has been linked to higher levels of coronary heart disease, birth defects, skin conditions, and cancer, not just in textile workers, but also in those who live near viscose factories. What’s more, dissolving-pulp wastes approximately 70% of the tree and is a chemically intensive manufacturing process.

In 2017, an investigation was undertaken by the Changing Markets Foundation that linked fashion brands such as Zara, H&M, and Marks & Spencer to highly polluting viscose factories in China, India, and Indonesia. Concerns have also been raised regarding the devastating impact of wood pulp production on forests, people, and vulnerable animal populations.

What’s more, the production of viscose is contributing to the rapid depletion of the world’s forests, which are being cleared to make way for pulpwood plantations. It is estimated that around 30% of rayon and viscose used in fashion is made from pulp sourced from endangered and ancient forests. This leads not only to habitat destruction—creating a significant threat to endangered species—but also often involves human rights abuses and land grabbing from Indigenous communities.

Organisations like Canopy work to make sure that viscose is not from high-risk areas. In 2014, Canopy also teamed up with Stella McCartney to create a life-cycle analysis on alternative fibres.

Though the viscose production process is multi-faceted, retailers play a significant role in the problem. Fast-fashion giants are placing pressure on manufacturers to produce and distribute clothes at ever-increasing speeds and cheaper costs. This encourages these unsustainable social and environmental practices. Big brands have the money and power to step up and encourage responsible and sustainable manufacturing, but we are yet to see enough meaningful action. Disappointingly, according to a new report by the Changing Markets Foundation, “While viscose suppliers have made considerable strides to eliminate endangered forest fibres from their feedstocks over the years, some 75 percent of the world’s leading brands have made few to no commitments to sourcing more sustainable viscose.”

Are there better options?

As technology progresses, new materials are created, such as EcoVero. Produced by Lenzing, this innovative fabric is made using sustainable wood from controlled sources which are either Forest Stewardship Council or Program for Endorsement of Forest Certification Schemes certified in Europe. More than 60% of the trees used to produce the fibre come from Austria and Bavaria to ensure lower emissions. Nearly all the chemicals used during the production of EcoVero are also recovered and reused, causing 50% less emissions and taking up half as much energy and water. Armedangels even started using EcoVero in 2017, like in this dress:

The post Material Guide: What Is Viscose and Is It Sustainable? appeared first on Good On You.

Myth 1. Fashion is the 2nd most polluting industry in the world

Enter one of the most enduring ‘statistics’ cited about the fashion industry, but the truth is there’s no scientific evidence to validate the claim. Despite this, there is plenty of evidence to show that fashion carries with it a very serious environmental footprint. According to calculations based on the 2019 Pulse of the Fashion Industry report, the fashion industry ties with the livestock industry as the third most polluting industry in the world—at least when it comes to greenhouse gas emissions—after electricity and heat, agriculture, road transportation, and oil and gas production. That’s still one hell of an impact—and something we should all want to do something about.

Myth 2. Leather is a by-product of the meat industry

Though many justify buying leather by assuming the skins of animals in the meat industry will be discarded anyway, this isn’t actually the case. Contrary to popular belief, leather is a profitable resource or ‘co-product’, not simply an incidental by-product of the meat industry. Not to mention, the most ‘luxurious’ leather is taken from newborn veal calves and sometimes even unborn calves taken prematurely from their mother’s wombs! If you want to learn more, we highly recommend looking at our article on the realities around this profitable material.

Myth 3. Faux fur is an ethical or sustainable option

Though faux fur has been touted as an ethical alternative to real fur, much faux fur on the market is made from non-biodegradable and chemical-laden materials such as nylon, acrylic, and polyester that are notorious for shedding microfibres. And sadly, in 2017, a scandal in the UK highlighted that you can’t always trust the labels on your clothes. Several high street brands, including Missguided and House of Fraser, were found to have incorrectly labelled faux fur products made out of cat fur from China!

This issue likely goes beyond just a handful of stores, as the vast quantities of fur being produced worldwide mean that real fur is becoming cheaper to produce than faux fur. We suggest avoiding both real fur and faux fur (unless it’s clearly made from sustainable materials) or buying it second hand.

Myth 4. Real leather is better for the environment than vegan leather

Short answer? Not always. It’s true many fake leather products are made out of plastic-based materials like polyvinyl chloride (PVC), which is non-biodegradable and produced using toxic chemicals that have terrible effects on both the environment and factory workers. Polyurethane (PU) which is also frequently used is somewhat less harmful, but still not ideal for the environment. But did you know animal leather often has a more significant impact on the planet than even PU and isn’t necessarily biodegradable, depending on how it’s treated? 

While leather is a classic, durable, and ‘natural’ material that can last a lifetime, its production can also be highly detrimental to people and the planet. Thankfully, there are eco-friendly leather alternatives on the market right now that are far more ethical and often more sustainable!

Myth 5. By donating your old clothes, you’re helping the environment and people in need

Particularly in affluent Western countries, shoppers now consume cheap, low-quality fashion at such a rate that charities and op-shops can barely begin to deal with the vast amounts of clothes being dumped on them. Not only is the sheer volume of clothing a major issue, but the declining quality of donated clothes means that many of these are unsalable and end up in landfills anyway! To make matters worse, according to a recent report by the ABC, a lot of this poor-quality clothing ends up flooding the local markets of places like Ghana. It sadly completes its journey by contributing to an “environmental catastrophe”, turning parts of the country into mountains of toxic landfill made from “dead white man’s clothes”.

Any environmental benefit created by donating our old clothes is undone when we simply fill up the newfound space in our wardrobes with brand new clothes. Next time you’re about to donate some of your old clothes, why not give them a second chance at life by upcycling them, getting them tailored, selling them online, or throwing a clothes swap party? If you are determined to donate, give your local charity shops a call to make sure they’re currently in need of your good quality items.

Myth 6. Ethical clothing is too expensive

We won’t pretend that spending $50 on an organic cotton t-shirt instead of $5 on a cheaply made one is a realistic choice for everyone. For many, one look at the price tag on an item of ethical clothing is enough to turn them off for good. We’re here to tell you that it shouldn’t!

Clothing prices used to be much higher, and the production of more sustainable fashion harkens back to our roots. New clothing more than a few times a year was a rarity quite recently in history, and in just the last twenty years, the price of clothing has plummeted to the pitiful prices we see today. There is so much more that goes into a price tag than the cost of the fabric. There’s also the cost of paying a living wage and taking care of our Earth. ‘Cost per wear‘ is a rule adopted by many interested in giving their wardrobe an ethical overhaul or with a particular budget in mind. It considers how many uses (or ‘wears’) you can get per item of clothing, and the more wears, the better the investment. Our mindset as consumers needs to shift away from the culture of instant gratification and materialism that often goes hand-in-hand with exploitation. The unrealistic and unsustainable price points surrounding us have warped our expectations, and something’s gotta give.

Also, don’t underestimate second hand clothing! If you have some time to dedicate browsing through op shops, VInted, or Vestiaire Collective listings, you might just find your new favourite piece for a fraction of the original price.

So there you have it—6 fashion industry ‘facts’ we’ve busted wide open. It’s a confusing and contradictory world out there, so good on you for taking a moment to learn what’s what about the latest myths in fashion.

The post Fashion Myths: 6 Fashion Industry ‘Facts’ Explained appeared first on Good On You.

Today, we challenge you to forget what you think you know about vegan fashion: there’s a huge variety of ethical alternatives to animal products on the market that look just as good as the real thing, minus the cruelty. However, it’s worth remembering that just because something is vegan, that doesn’t necessarily guarantee it’s ethically or sustainably made. Fast fashion still perpetuates cruelty in a number of other ways, including using up precious natural resources and not paying workers a living wage.

So we’ve rounded up the best vegan clothing brands out there: these cruelty-free brands are stylish and innovative and cater to a wide range of tastes, so there is something for everyone. And even if you’re not vegan, or environmental or labour issues are more important to you, all of these brands rate “Good” or “Great”, which means they are also making an effort for people and the planet. That’s some solid intersectionality we love to see.

Read on to discover the best vegan clothing brands out there that look good, do good by our animal friends, and deserve your support.

The post Cruelty-Free Fashion: 36 Stylish Vegan Clothing Brands We Know You’ll Love appeared first on Good On You.

Timeless, affordable, falling behind

Californian online retailer Everlane is synonymous with timeless styles at affordable prices. Everlane has built its brand with the tagline “radical transparency” and positioned itself as a leader in ethical practice. It says it is committed to revealing the true costs behind all of its products—from materials, to labour, to transportation. But behind the sleek advertising campaigns and celebrity endorsements, how do Everlane’s claims stack up? We take a look at how this US retailer rates in terms of its environmental impact, labour rights, and animal welfare and ask: how ethical is Everlane?

Environmental impact

When it comes to the environment, despite its claim of “radical transparency”, there are significant gaps in the information Everlane provides to the public—and on some issues, there is no information provided at all. That’s why we’ve given Everlane a rating of “Not Good Enough” for the environment.

On the plus side, Everlane does reject passing trends, instead emphasising classic, well-made designs that are more likely to be worn for longer—a key characteristic of ethical fashion. And we were pleased to see that in September 2017, Everlane introduced a new denim line that addresses many of the environmental impacts of denim production. It also uses some eco-friendly materials, including recycled fabrics.

However, there is no evidence Everlane minimises textile waste or is working to eliminate hazardous chemicals, nor does it seem to reduce its carbon and other greenhouse gas emissions in most of its supply chain. Everlane would achieve a higher score here if it was more transparent around its impact on the planet and incorporated more eco-friendly materials such as organic cotton and recycled wool across the full range of its products.

Labour conditions

When taken at face value, Everlane appears to do right by its workers. The Everlane website includes a “Factories” section that identifies many of the brand’s suppliers worldwide and provides pictures of the factories, short descriptions of how Everlane found them, the materials produced there, and information about the owners. Though publicly sharing a list of suppliers is a good step towards “radical transparency”, Everlane doesn’t state whether this is a complete list of suppliers, and the list doesn’t include any suppliers at the raw material stage.

What’s more, although the images provided depict good working conditions, it is difficult to confirm that they are truly representative of Everlane’s suppliers, as they were not provided (or audited) by an independent third party. It’s also unclear which part of the supply chain is audited and how often those audits occur. Despite these “happy” factories, there is no evidence the brand has worker empowerment initiatives such as collective bargaining or rights to make a complaint, nor does it ensure payment of a living wage in its supply chain. At this stage, the brand scores “Not Good Enough” for workers, as it still has a long way to go.

Animal welfare

Everlane also scores “Not Good Enough” for our animal friends. It doesn’t use fur, down, exotic animal skin, or angora in any of its products. While it has a general statement about minimising animal suffering and traces some animal products to the first stage of production, there is no sign of a formal animal welfare policy. Its score in this area also suffers from its use of leather, wool, and exotic animal hair—though it does state it sources wool from non-mulesed sheep. The welfare of both animals and workers cannot be guaranteed when a brand does not list the source of animal-derived materials. Everlane needs to improve its transparency and the traceability of its materials, or even better, eliminate animal-derived materials from its products altogether.

Overall rating: Not Good Enough

We’ve given Everlane an overall rating of “Not Good Enough” based on our own research. To its credit, Everlane focuses on timeless designs over short-lived trends and emphasises the high quality and craftsmanship of its products, and acknowledges that brands ought to be transparent. But there are essential ways in which Everlane fails to live up to its own hype. Ultimately, Everlane’s claims of ‘radical transparency’ don’t stack up against its inability to trace most of its materials and its unwillingness to provide information on its environmental impact, auditing processes, and source of animal materials. As Lizzie Widdicombe rightly put it in The New Yorker, “In some ways, the most radical thing about Everlane is its marketing.“

Note that Good On You ratings consider hundreds of issues, and it is not possible to list every relevant issue in a summary of the brand’s performance. For more information, see our How We Rate page and our FAQs.

See the rating.

So for the conscious consumer, Everlane is out. Luckily, many ethical brands offer timeless, well-made designs that do right by workers, animals, and the planet. 

Good swaps

Check out these alternative brands to Everlane rated “Good” or “Great” by us.

The post How Ethical Is Everlane? appeared first on Good On You.

Veganism has gone mainstream, and with it, the demand for vegan fashion has rocketed skywards. Add to that the devastating impacts of the modern leather industry and it’s easy to see why Matt & Nat’s cruelty-free accessories have developed a loyal following.  But is being vegan enough to be truly ethical?

Environmental Impact

Matt & Nat does use some sustainable and recycled materials in its designs, including recycled nylon, cork, rubber, and even recycled bicycle tyres. It also recycles materials that would otherwise end up in landfill—all linings used in its products are made from 100% recycled plastic bottles, which is a great move.

Unfortunately, while Matt & Nat’s use of sustainable materials should be commended, the brand’s most commonly used materials are polyurethane (PU) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) plastic. Sadly, PVC is probably the single most environmentally-damaging plastic! Made out of chlorine and petroleum, the manufacturing process of PVC use a lot of resources, and it releases a lot of toxic chemicals. It contains nasty substances such as phthalates and dioxins, which a number of studies have shown to potentially cause adverse health effects including cancer and birth defects. Concerns surrounding these chemicals have led Greenpeace to call for the discontinuation of PVC production altogether.

The brand says it prefers to use the less harmful PU over PVC where possible. However, it’s not clear exactly how much PVC is used—it does not clearly list the materials used in each of the products.

What’s more, there is no evidence the brand avoids hazardous chemicals in its supply chain or that it implements water reduction initiatives.

Matt & Nat’s environmental impact is ‘Not Good Enough’. The brand could improve its score by being more transparent about the materials and chemicals it uses in its products and by using leather alternatives that are better for the environment. The brand could also provide additional information about how it addresses the impact of its operations on the environment.

Labour Conditions

Matt & Nat’s labour rating is also ‘Not Good Enough’. Its products are made in small factories in China, a high-risk country for poor labour conditions. The brand states that it only works with factories that operate in line with its ethos and says it regularly verifies factory conditions are up to standard. However, it does not state exactly how often it visits the factories. It also fails to mention what specific measures it undertakes to ensure that these standards are being upheld. It provides no evidence that it has, or requires suppliers to use, a Code of Conduct.

Matt & Nat states that one of its factories is certified under the SA8000 standard, which ensures the basic human rights of its workers by providing a sufficient living wage, no discrimination, and a safe workplace. The brand also maintains that all its factories qualify for the SA8000 standard certification and that it’s taking steps to make the standard a bigger part of the production process in the future, without specifying what steps they are taking or when they will be implemented. We also found no evidence that Matt & Nat ensures the payment of a living wage in its supply chain.

In addition, Matt & Nat’s use of PVC to produce some of its products poses a significant risk to factory workers and producers. Most concerningly, vinyl chloride, the chemical used to make PVC, is a known human carcinogen according to the World Health Organisation’s International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC). Workers in factories that manufacture PVC are at risk from high exposure to these chemicals. They can also contaminate the surrounding air, waterways, and soil, potentially affecting those in nearby communities.

In addition, while PU is kinder on the environment than PVC, it is not a perfect leather alternative. PU releases toxic compounds called isocyanates. These can cause lung irritation, trigger asthma attacks, and irritate skin. This is particularly harmful to factory workers who are regularly exposed.

Matt & Nat needs to ensure its workers are paid a living, and provide more information about its labour standards and how its use of toxic chemicals in its manufacturing processes affects its workers before it can achieve a higher rating.

Animal Welfare

No room for improvement here! Matt & Nat is a fully vegan brand that uses no animal products, so it gets a ‘Great’ score on the animal welfare front.

Overall Rating: Not Good Enough

We’ve given Matt & Nat a rating of ‘Not Good Enough’ based on our own research. We commend the brand for its dedication to animal welfare and use of some sustainable materials. However, there are still a number of significant concerns. These need to be addressed before it can achieve a higher rating.

Matt & Nat should improve its transparency when it comes to labelling materials that are used in its products. It needs to tell us more about its plans to move towards more sustainable materials, as well as specific details about the labour standards of the factories it collaborates with. Note that Good On You ratings consider 100s of issues and it is not possible to list every relevant issue in a summary of the brand’s performance. For more information see our How We Rate page and our FAQs.

We should note that Matt & Nat was previously rated ‘Good’ and this is a downgrade that many ethical fashionistas might find surprising, given the brand’s profile. We revisited the brand’s rating after a number of people asked us to take another look at its environmental and social record. As always, we want to give you the most thorough and trusted ethical rating and will always update a rating when necessary.

See the rating.

Luckily, we’ve found some ethical vegan alternatives to Matt and Nat, that are just as beautiful but have a better impact on people and the planet!

For other vegan leather alternatives that are plastic-free and just as gorgeous, check out our article on eco-friendly vegan leather alternatives!

Good Swaps

Ethical alternatives to Matt & Nat

The post How Ethical Is Matt and Nat? appeared first on Good On You.

Environmental Impact

Gap’s environment rating is ‘It’s A Start’. On the plus side, Gap demonstrates leadership in managing water use in its supply chain—it received an ‘A’ in the Carbon Disclosure Project (CDP) water security questionnaire! It also uses some eco-friendly materials including recycled materials, though there is no evidence it minimises textile waste when manufacturing its products. And while it has set a science-based target to reduce greenhouse gas emissions generated from its own operations and supply chain, there is no evidence it is on track to meet its target. Further work is definitely needed if Gap wishes to be ‘Good’ for the planet!

Labour Conditions

Unfortunately, Gap is ‘Not Good Enough’ when it comes to labour conditions. It received a score of 41-50% in the Fashion Transparency Index, as none of its supply chain is certified by labour standards which ensure worker health and safety, living wages, or other labour rights. While the brand publishes a detailed list of suppliers in the final stage of production and some information about the second stage of production, as well as some information about forced labour, gender equality, or freedom of association, the good news ends there. There is no evidence it ensures payment of a living wage in its supply chain, and it discloses inadequate policies to protect suppliers and workers in its supply chain from the impacts of COVID-19. There’s still plenty of room for improvement here, Gap.

Animal Welfare

Gap is also ‘Not Good Enough’ for the animals. It has a basic formal policy to protect animal welfare, which is a step in the right direction, and it doesn’t use fur, down, or exotic animal skin. However, it uses leather, wool, and exotic animal hair without stating sources. There is also no evidence it traces any animal products to the first stage of production. This means we can’t be sure about the welfare of the animals or workers involved in the production process!

Overall Rating: It’s A Start

We’ve rated Gap ‘It’s A Start’ overall based on our own research. Though Gap has some promising environmental measures in place, it still needs to make changes in all areas, especially when it comes to paying a living wage to its workers. Note that Good On You ratings consider 100s of issues and it is not possible to list every relevant issue in a summary of the brand’s performance. For more information see our How We Rate page and our FAQs.

See the rating.

The good news? There are plenty of brands out there that are not only reliable and on-trend, but are committed to reducing their impact on the environment, minimising harm to animals, and supporting the people that make our clothes.

Good Swaps

Ethical alternatives to Gap

The post How Ethical Is Gap? appeared first on Good On You.

Not quite soaring on sustainability

American Eagle is a go-to destination for affordable and on-trend jeans and casual wear for young people with over 1000 stores worldwide. We take a look at how the brand rates in terms of environmental impact, labour conditions, and animal welfare. We ask—how ethical is American Eagle?

Environmental impact

On the surface, American Eagle seems to be dedicated to sustainability. In practice, however, it appears to be doing very little to reduce its environmental impact. While it has set an absolute target to reduce greenhouse gas emissions generated from its own operations and supply chain, there is no evidence it is on track to meet its target.

There is also no evidence that American Eagle is taking adequate steps to minimise or eliminate hazardous chemicals in its supply chain. This is problematic, not just for the environment, but for the brand’s workers as well! While it does measure and report on its water usage and wastewater management, it has not set any specific targets. American Eagle also lacks adequate policies and initiatives for resource management and disposal, and uses few eco-friendly materials.

American Eagle outlines a number of sustainability strategies including the recycling of paper in its corporate offices, and the establishment of permanent I:CO recycling centres in over 823 stores across North America. As positive as these initiatives are, there is still a long way for American Eagle to go before it can consider itself sustainable! For these reasons we have given the brand a score of “Not Good Enough” for the planet.

Labour conditions

American Eagle is really lagging behind for people, too, with a score of “Not Good Enough”. There is no evidence that it provides its workers with a crucial living wage. It also sources from countries with high or extreme risk of labour abuse, however it has attempted to address these risks by signing the Bangladesh Building and Fire Safety Accord, and participating in the Business for Social Responsibility network. Despite this, it received a very low score of 11-20% in the Fashion Transparency Index, as none of its supply chain is certified by labour standards which ensure worker health and safety, living wages, or other labour rights. It also does not disclose any policies or safeguards to protect suppliers and workers in its supply chain from the impacts of COVID-19.

To make matters worse, in the past American Eagle has been linked to a number of scandals, including an incident in 2015 involving the dangerous use of sandblasting in a Chinese factory, as well as a leaked video in 2011 of a Chinese factory used by a number of American retailers including American Eagle that showed workers being subjected to poor conditions. In response to the sandblasting incident, American Eagle banned the presence of sandblasting equipment in any facility producing its clothing.

Animal welfare

American Eagle is “Not Good Enough” for the animals, either. It has a general statement about minimising animal suffering but not a formal animal welfare policy. It states that it sources wool from non-mulesed sheep, which is good, but it uses leather, down, and exotic animal hair without stating its sources. While it doesn’t use angora, fur, or exotic animal skin, there is no evidence it traces any animal products to the first stage of production. This is problematic as the welfare of the animals and workers can’t be guaranteed.

Overall rating: Not Good Enough

While its greenhouse gas reduction target and recycling programs are a good first step, ultimately American Eagle appears more interested in talking the talk rather than walking the walk. Being more transparent about its environmental policies and labour conditions, paying a living wage to its workers, and using more eco-friendly materials in its products would be great places to start. At the end of the day, American Eagle follows a fast fashion model, promoting quantity over quality, which is inherently unsustainable, meaning it rates “Not Good Enough” overall.

Note that Good On You ratings consider hundreds of issues and it is not possible to list every relevant issue in a summary of the brand’s performance. For more information see our How We Rate page and our FAQs.

See the rating.

Luckily there are more ethical and sustainable brands out there with higher quality clothes for you to rock.

Good swaps

“Good” and “Great” alternatives to American Eagle

The post How Ethical Is American Eagle? appeared first on Good On You.

Over the past decade, Topshop has enjoyed global success and collaborations with a number of artists and celebrities. But its owner the Arcadia Group has been no stranger to controversy, having made headlines over the past decade due to allegations of labour abuses, including unfair wages paid to garment workers and poor working conditions. Topshop itself has also faced allegations, like when it was claimed Topshop x Beyonce’s Ivy Park collection’s mostly female garment workers were toiling under unfair conditions despite the range supposedly promoting female empowerment.

So after running a gauntlet of bad headlines and controversy, has Topshop since picked up its ethical game? Read on to find out.

Environmental Impact

Topshop has made some effort to improve its impact on the planet, but it still has a long way to go before it can become truly sustainable.

Despite the release of its CONSIDERED collection, as well as a vegan shoe collection in 2019 in an attempt to lower its environmental impact by using eco-friendly and recycled materials, the impact of the fast fashion giant on the planet is considerable, as it still relies on the mass production of brand new clothing.

What’s more, there is no evidence that it has taken any meaningful action to reduce or eliminate hazardous chemicals, or that it implements water reduction initiatives. There is also no evidence it has set a greenhouse gas emissions reduction target.

But even if Topshop does incorporate more sustainable materials, as one of the world’s biggest fast fashion chains, Topshop’s business model is inherently unsustainable. By emphasising fleeting trends over timeless designs and producing huge amounts of poorly-made clothes, it’s hard to see how Topshop can become a truly ethical brand without ditching a fast fashion model. For all these reasons, its environmental impact is ‘Not Good Enough’.

Labour Conditions

We gave Topshop a labour rating of ‘Not Good Enough’. It received a score of 31-40% in the Fashion Transparency Index.

Some of Topshop’s supply chain is certified by Sedex Members Ethical Trade Audit – SMETA Best Practice Guidance including all of the final stage of production, which is a promising move. The brand likely publishes information about its supplier policies, audits, and remediation processes, as well as a list of suppliers in the final stage of production (but not the second stage). Topshop may also be publishing limited information about forced labour, gender equality, or freedom of association.

Concerningly, we found no evidence Topshop ensure the payment of a living wage in its supply chain, and it does not disclose any policies or safeguards to protect suppliers and workers in its supply chain from the impacts of COVID-19.

Topshop needs to improve its transparency surrounding its labour practices, and make sure its workers are paid a living wage and protected amid COVID-19 disruption.

Animal Welfare

Topshop received a score of ‘It’s a Start’ for animal welfare. Although Topshop has banned the use of angora, down, exotic animal skin and fur in its products, it still uses leather, mohair, and wool in its products without providing any information about where they are sourced from. It has a general statement about minimising animal suffering but not a formal animal welfare policy. The welfare of both animals and workers cannot be guaranteed when the source of these materials is unknown. Topshop could improve its score in this area by being more transparent about where it gets its leather and wool from, or even better, by not using animal products in its clothes at all!

Overall Rating

We’ve given Topshop a rating of ‘Not Good Enough’ based on information from our own research.

Topshop needs to do much more to improve its practices in all areas. While Topshop appears to be putting some measures in place to shrink its carbon footprint, none of them apply to the resource-intensive garment manufacturing process, which is the most important thing that the brand needs to address if it hopes to become more sustainable.

And in facing a number of allegations of labour abuse over the years, Topshop has shown time and time again that it’s willing to put profit over people. The brand needs to ensure that workers are being paid a living wage!

See the rating.

So next time you need to fill up a gap in your wardrobe, why not give Topshop a miss and choose one of these ethical brands rated ‘Good’ or ‘Great’?

Good Swaps

Ethical Alternatives to Topshop

The post How Ethical Is Topshop? appeared first on Good On You.

You might not have the time to do your own research, but luckily we’ve compiled a list of the best fashion podcasts that you can simply download and listen to wherever, whatever you’re doing. Let’s get listening!

1. Conscious Chatter

Kestrel Jenkins, founder of AWEAR World, has a wealth of experience in the ethical fashion industry, working for sustainable companies such as People Tree. Her fashion podcast Conscious Chatter covers style, and sustainability. She interviews a wide range of fashion industry experts from designers, entrepreneurs, and advocates, to farmers and factory workers. Kestrel talks style and ethics with guests such as:

• Andrew Morgan, director of groundbreaking documentary The True Cost (S01 Episode 44)
• Safia Minney, founder of People Tree (S01 Episode 08)
• Elizabeth Cline, author of Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion (S01 Episode 05)
• ((DRUM ROLL)) Sandra Capponi, the Co-Founder & Head of Development for Good On You (S02 Episode 54)

Her latest series, The Root, made in collaboration with black indigenous sustainability expert Dominique Drakeford, focuses on the need to decolonise the sustainable fashion agenda, and equitably centres the voices, knowledge, and labour of BIPOC! Tune in on the Conscious Chatter website, subscribe and download for free on Apple Podcasts, or download on Overcast, a free podcast app for iOS. Follow Kestrel on Twitter @kestrelee.

2. Wardrobe Crisis

Clare Press is a fashion journalist, former editor-at-large for Marie Claire Australia, and author of several books, including our fave Wardrobe Crisis: How We Went From Sunday Best to Fast Fashion. Now this eco-influencer has hit the airwaves with her ethical fashion podcast also titled Wardrobe Crisis. According to Clare, “this show unzips the real issues that face the industry today, with a focus on ethics, sustainability, consumerism, activism, identity, and creativity.” Having only kicked off in 2017, Clare has already spoken with an amazing array of experts, including:

• Marine biologist and fashion model, Laura Wells on why plastic sucks (Episode 1)
• Director of Philosophy at Patagonia, Vincent Stanley on ethical fashion (Episode 22)
• CEO of Sussan, Rebecca Hard for a Fast Fashion Question Time (Episode 16)

Start listening via the Wardrobe Crisis website or subscribe via Apple Podcasts. Follow Clare on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook.

3. American Fashion Podcast

Run by co-hosts Charles Beckwith, Seth Friedermann, Cathy Schepis, and Lisa-Maria Radano, American Fashion Podcast, which ran from 2014 and has an archive of 200+ episodes, explores current issues in the garment industry. The team also looks at more sustainable and ethical practices in the future of fashion. Featuring a range of designers, retailers, executives, photographers and writers, the ethical fashion podcast holds discussions with fashion bigwigs.

American Fashion Podcast is perfect for anyone—from those wanting to learn more about the ethical fashion industry, to those looking to start a business. Listen on the website or subscribe and download for free on Apple Podcasts! You can follow their conversation on Twitter at @AFPod.

4. Spirit of 608

Lorraine Sanders is a long-time fashion journalist whose podcast Spirit of 608 puts a spotlight on women at the forefront of fashion, entrepreneurship, sustainability, and tech. Her weekly episodes are a great resource for people looking to start or expand their own ethical fashion business. Guests discuss a range of challenges they face running businesses and how they manage to overcome them, for example:

• Moving from flea markets to a flagship store with Marcia Clarke (Episode 84)
• How to launch a fashion tech startup with Sarah Shapiro and Melissa Koerner (Episode 82)
• The business of ethical fashion blogging with Sustainably Chic’s Natalie Smith (Episode 71)

Listen on the website or subscribe, download for free on Apple Podcasts, or join the convo on Twitter @Spiritof608.

5. Business With Purpose

Hosted by Molly Stillman, a long-time lifestyle and fashion blogger, Business With Purpose highlights a number of businesses—from huge international brands, to community non-profits, and everything in between—who all aim to change the world for the better. For instance, Molly interviews:

• How to support ethical, fair trade, and small businesses during COVID-19 (Episode 190)
• How to get started shopping ethically (Episode 210)

Tune in on Molly’s website, subscribe and download on Apple Podcasts, or tune into what Molly has to say on Twitter @stillbeingmolly.

6. Low Tox Life (Episode 5)

While Alexx Stuart’s podcast series Low Tox Life isn’t all about fashion, this episode featuring Hannah Parris is a must listen. Hannah is the co-founder of sustainable brand Mighty Good Basics. In this podcast she covers a range of topics, including issues in the garment industry, overcoming challenges in ethical fashion companies, and successful marketing tactics.

Listen via Alexx’s website or subscribe and download for free on Apple Podcasts. You can also follow Alex on Twitter for tips on how to live your own ‘low tox’ life, @Alexx_Stuart.

7. Pre-Loved Podcast

Pre-Loved Podcast is a weekly interview show about rad vintage style with guests you’ll want to go thrifting with, hosted by Emily Stochl of the Brume & Daisy blog. They chat about style, running a fashion business, sustainability, slow fashion, the stories behind incredible vintage pieces, and why they choose secondhand things first.

• The founder of the non-profit-organization Remake, Ayesha Barenblat, talks about fashion as a force for good (S02 Episode 14)
• Jenny Welbourn, creator of Wear I Live, a blog which is focused on “what we’re wearing, how we’re living, and its effect on the planet and its people” (S02 Episode 11)

To follow along with all things #PreLovedPod and otherwise, you can listen on the website and Apple Podcasts.

8. Sustainably Influenced

In Sustainably Influenced, Bianca Foley and Charlotte Williams explore the efforts in making changes to their lifestyles as influencers. As they aim to live more sustainably and consciously, they hope that they can encourage you to make one small change today. They also shed a little light on the many different terms in the sustainability world, and discuss the different aspects of living a conscious lifestyle and how we can do our bit to make a difference.

• We talk sustainability & second hand fashion with Emma Slade Edmondson (Episode 15)

You can listen to Sustainably Influenced on Apple Podcasts or Spotify.

9. Good Ancestor with Aja Barber on Sustainable Fashion

Hosted by globally respected speaker, anti-racism educator, and New York Times bestselling author of Me and White Supremacy, Layla F. Saad, Good Ancestor is an interview series with change-makers and culture-shapers exploring what it means to be a good ancestor. In episode 22 Layla speaks with writer, stylist, and consultant, Aja Barber, whose work focuses on the intersections of feminism, colonialism, and race in regards to our clothing and how we choose to consume.

If you’re interested in more from Good Ancestor, check them out on Apple Podcasts or Spotify.

10. Style With Substance

Each week Style With Substance explores a new topic, joined by an industry insider guest to discuss clothing recycling, renting your wardrobe, thrifting and fashion that gives back to the planet. Series one explores greenwashing and the myths that surround sustainable fashion.

• How To Support Black Owned Businesses With Marilyne Kékéli of Mamater (Season 2, episode 5)

Check Style With Substance out on Apple Podcasts.

11. Wear Your Values

When it comes to morals and values, there is a brilliant podcast in case you want to dive deep into the topic. Wear Your Values was created by the sustainable fashion brand Echte and offers a free step-by-step handbook on how to keep a realistic overview in a world where words like ‘sustainable’ and ‘eco-friendly’ often suffer from greenwashing. One episode per day on your morning trip to work and you will already feel so much more prepared for the next shopping spree after just one week.

Tune in on the Echte website for free! Who can say no to that!

12. Fashion: No Filter

If you happen to spend some of your time scrolling through Instagram, you might already know at least one of the creators of this podcast. @camillecharriere is not only an influencer, but alongside her colleague Monica Ainley, also a dedicated fashion journalist. The two women are hosting a great series of interviews such as:

• Talking accountability in the fashion industry with Fashion Director and Chief Fashion Critic of the New York Times, Vanessa Friedmann
• Tackling the ‘ultimate elephant‘ in fashion’s closet—sustainability—by discussing ideas on how to improve the industry with experts, activists, and authors in the episode ‘Eco Warriors‘.

Tune in for free on player.fm: there is literally a topic for everyone!

13. Fashion Revolution Podcast

A global movement consisting of designers, producers, workers, and fashion lovers from all around the world? And this movement making a podcast series? We don’t know about you, but we were all ears right away! Fashion Revolution Podcast is a movement which aims to transform the fashion industry by telling stories that vary across the whole value chain, making them accessible for almost everyone.

Tune in on Apple Podcasts to learn about the production of the clothes you are wearing and which personal stories might be connected with these garments. While there are only three episodes, they are well worth a listen!

14. Ethical Fashion Initiative’s Ethical Fashion Podcast

Explore the issues driving the ethical fashion conversation with your hosts Simone Cipriani, Head and Founder of the ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative and sustainable fashion journalist Clare Press in the new Ethical Fashion Podcast. The series 2 is dedicated solely to Africa, featuring the voices of African creatives and leaders, from designers to entrepreneurs. This time, Simone and Clare are joined by a number of guests hosts to lead a 12-episode series of thought-provoking discussions surrounding ethical fashion, African creativity and sustainability.

Listen to the episodes on Ethical Fashion Initiative’s website.

So, what are you waiting for? Time to stop playing Sex and the City re-runs off your phone on the bus to work. Why not download one of these fashion podcasts and learn more about style ethics and the industry? Happy listening!

P.S. Hungry for more? Check out these great ethical fashion books and documentaries.

The post Happy Listening: 14 of the Best Fashion Podcasts appeared first on Good On You.

But when you consider how many cosmetic products are being sold just in the US alone – the beauty industry made over $93 billion in revenue in 2019 – that’s a lot of non-biodegradable packaging ending up in landfill. On top of this, many chemicals in cosmetics have a disastrous environmental effect when they accumulate in waterways.

Note (April 2020): Amidst the Coronavirus pandemic, many shopfronts and centres are closed to the public and may not be accepting makeup and cosmetics for recycling. However, now is a great time to do a clean out while so many of us are stuck at home! Why not put aside everything that you need to get rid of in a box or bag, and keep an eye out on the initiatives mentioned below (or any others in your local area), ready to be shipped or dropped off on the other side of the crisis?

So, what can we do about it?

While there are some brands like Lush and MAC who offer rewards for recycling their products, it’s unclear exactly where the waste ends up and how effective these programs actually are.

If you want to be sure that your old cosmetics won’t create waste, look to TerraCycle. Tom Szaky, a Princeton dropout with a passion for sustainability, founded the company in 2001. He’s managed to grow his fledgling enterprise into an innovative global recycling company! Operating in over 20 countries, TerraCycle collects and repurposes almost any kind of waste product for free.

TerraCycle has now partnered with Garnier to create a recycling program specifically for beauty products in the USA. The program is currently accepting haircare, skincare and cosmetics packaging, including shampoo and conditioner bottles and caps, hairspray caps, lotion dispensers, gel tubes, lipstick cases, mascara tubes, compacts, palettes, foundation bottles, concealer tubes and eyeliner pencils.

How does it work?

All you have to do is collect all your unwanted beauty packaging in a postage box (it doesn’t have to be clean, just make sure any excess product is removed), sign up to TerraCycle in your respective country, download and print off a shipping label for your box, then post it for free to your local recycling depot.

For donations of 10 lbs or more, each piece of waste earns two TerraCycle Points. You can redeem your points and convert them into a donation to one of TerraCycle’s nominated charities or they can go toward a non-profit organization, school or charity of your choice. So not only will you be reducing your environmental footprint, you’ll be giving back to organizations making real, positive change in the world. Sign me up!

The minimal look

At Good On You, we support initiatives looking to reduce the amount of waste ending up in landfill. However, we also believe that less is more, which is an important idea to keep in mind when shopping for cosmetics.We recommend going for quality over quantity when it comes to cosmetics. You can start by creating a shortlist of your favourite cruelty-free products. Also, keep an eye out for products that have been independently certified as fair trade or organic, and use minimal packaging. Then, purchase only what you need!

Also wondering what to do with your old clothes ?

Here’s how to get more mileage out of your clothing.

The post How to Recycle Your Old Cosmetics appeared first on Good On You.

Before we look at the good stuff, here’s what to avoid

These non-vegan ingredients are common in hair and skin products, so always check the label:

• Carmine a.k.a. cochineal, natural red 4, E120, and C.I. 75470 (made from crushed cochineal beetles to make red pigment used in nail polishes, lip products, blushes, and eyeliners)
• Glycerine a.k.a. Glycerin, glycerol (sometimes derived from animal fats, sometimes used in soaps, haircare, makeup, and moisturisers)
• Lanolin (a waxy substance in sheep’s wool, often used in lip products and hair products)
• Beeswax, apitoxin (bee venom), honey, bee pollen, miel
• Collagen (derived from animal tissue, bones or skin, used in many anti-ageing and lip-plumping products)
• Lactic acid (derived from milk products, used in anti-ageing and moisturising products)
• Shellac (made from lac bugs, used in nail products and some hair lacquers)
• Casein a.k.a. sodium caseinate or caseinate (derived from cow’s milk, sometimes used in conditioning hair products and face treatments)
• Elastin (protein extracted from the muscles, ligaments or aortas of animals, often used in anti-ageing products)
• Keratin (comes from the hair and horns of animals, often found in strengthening nail and hair products)
• Stearic Acid (generally derived from pigs’ stomachs, sometimes used in deodorants, soaps, hair products, and moisturisers)
• Guanine (fish scales, often used in sparkly nail polish, bronzers, highlighters and blushes)
• Oleic acid a.k.a. oleyl stearate, oleyl oleate or tallow (animal fat, sometimes used in nail polish, soap, moisturisers and make-up)
• Squalene (shark liver oil extract, commonly used in lip balms, deodorant and moisturisers)
• Animal hair (often used in makeup brushes and false eyelashes)

The following brands are either certified by Choose Cruelty-Free or are officially listed by PETA as a brand that does not practice animal testing.

Face

A great base is the key to keeping your makeup looking fresh and radiant. Choose a cleansing and moisturising routine that works with your skin type. This then ensures that your face is the best possible blank canvas.

Toner

Free from parabens and phthalates, and also 100% cruelty-free and vegan, the Alba Botanica Hawaiian Facial Toner purifies and minimises pores with soothing aloe vera, witch hazel, and cucumber extracts.

While a bit pricier, Lush offers a range of toners to suit any skin type that are made from mostly natural ingredients. Lush’s range includes bath bombs, bath oils, soaps, scrubs, face masks, lotions, and gels. They’ll leave your skin looking and smelling amazing.

You can also make your own vegan toner out of ingredients you can find in your pantry!

Facial moisturiser

The Andalou Naturals 1000 Roses Beautiful Day Cream contains no artificial fragrances or harsh chemicals, so it’s perfect for those with sensitive skin. Made from 100% vegan, cruelty-free, certified organic, and fair trade ingredients, this hydrating cream revives skin while bringing out that ‘rosy’ complexion.

Those with oily, acne-prone skin will love Alba Botanica’s Acnedote Oil Control Lotion. Affordable, cruelty-free, and formulated with salicylic acid and willow bark extract, this lotion targets blemishes for a visibly clearer complexion.

Cleanser

Pacifica offers a range of affordable cleansers to suit any skin type. Their 100% vegan and cruelty-free Sea Foam Complete Face Wash combines coconut water and sea vegetables. Not only does it gently cleanse skin, but doubles as a makeup remover!

A new skincare trend that is gaining traction in the beauty sphere is the oil cleansing method. It’s simple –  Take your favourite organic oil, such as olive oil, coconut oil, or jojoba oil, then massage it gently into your face and neck for one to two minutes. The oil works as a great makeup remover and also picks the dirt out of your pores. Your complexion is therefore left clean and hydrated. Oil cleansing might not be suitable for all skin-types, so make sure to patch test first, and be careful with harsher oils like tea tree!

Scrub

Now that we know the damage to our oceans caused by plastic microbeads, face scrubs containing the problematic particles are definitely out of the question.

But it’s super quick, cheap, and easy to make your own face scrub out of ingredients you can find in your pantry!

Face mask

Pacifica has a number of affordable, vegan and cruelty-free face masks. Their Stress Rehab Coconut & Caffeine Facial Mask is the perfect antidote for when your skin is a bit under the weather. It combines coconut, caffeine, green tea, and turmeric to purify, therefore brightening and re-balancing stressed skin.

Have a spare minute? That’s how long it will take you to whip up one of these easy face masks out of ingredients you can find in your kitchen.

Lip balm

Did you know that it’s super easy to make your own organic vegan lip balm? Give it a go! Or for those of us a bit less adventurous, the Hurraw Balms are fantastic vegan, cruelty-free, organic alternatives to Chapsticks. They come in a huge range of scents and are available online and in stores worldwide.

Hair

Shampoo and conditioner

Lush offers a range of beautifully scented, natural and handmade shampoos, conditioners, and treatments to suit all hair types. While all Lush products are 100% cruelty-free, not all are vegan, but you will find those are clearly labelled.

Andalou Naturals offers a range of natural, vegan and cruelty-free hair care products.  They are all made from at least 70% certified organic and fair trade ingredients.

Dry shampoo

The Lush No Drought Dry Shampoo is made from 100% vegan and mostly natural ingredients including cornflour, grapefruit oil, and lime oil, to keep your hair feeling soft and looking fresh and clean.

The Batiste Original Dry Shampoo is vegan and sulfate free, with an easy-to-love scent that matches any mood.

Why not make your own 2-ingredient dry shampoo? All you need is cornstarch and lavender essential oil!

Hairspray

Hairspray can be full of nasty chemicals that leave your hair dry and frizzy. The Aveda Witch Hazel Hair Spray is certified cruelty-free, non-aerosol, and made in a factory that is 100% wind-powered!

Made from at least 70% Certified Organic and Fair Trade ingredients, the Andalou Naturals Sunflower & Citrus Brilliant Shine Hairspray is rich in Vitamin E, which nourishes and conditions hair to give it a beautiful shine.

For those who want an effective cruelty-free hairspray that won’t break the bank, why not give this tried and tested recipe for an all-natural vegan hairspray a whirl?

Hair dye

Getting your hair dyed at a professional salon may be the safest option, but it ain’t cheap! Plus, it can also be tricky to find a salon that uses cruelty-free and vegan products. So why not do it yourself?

Lush offers a range of natural henna dyes made from essential oils and fair trade organic cocoa butter which makes your tresses glossy and soft. The dye develops differently according to your hair tone, to create your own personal shade.

For those wanting semi-permanent hair colour while avoiding ammonia or peroxide, Manic Panic creates 100% vegan and cruelty-free hair dyes in a range of rock ‘n roll colours.

Lime Crime is a certified vegan and cruelty-free beauty brand that makes a range of “unicorn hair” products. As the name suggests, they come in every colour of the rainbow!

Hair treatment

Lush offers a range of handmade hair treatments that will have your locks looking healthy and beautiful. Their Hair Doctor Hair and Scalp Mask combines moisturising seaweed, extra virgin coconut oil, peppermint and rosemary extracts, Irish moss powder, chamomile blue oil, and fuller’s earth. All of this goodness combines to gently cleanse the scalp and hydrate your hair.

The humble coconut oil really is a miracle product! Not only is it yummy, but it is an effective moisturiser, makeup remover, and hair product. Rub a handful of oil into your wet hair and leave it in for 15 minutes. When time is up, wash it out with shampoo to reveal shiny and healthy locks.

Body

Moisturiser

While they used to be owned by L’Oreal (which tests on animals), The Body Shop was sold to Natura in 2017 – animal lovers rejoice! Over the past three decades, The Body Shop has worked alongside Cruelty-Free International in advocating for a worldwide ban on animal testing. The brand is also dedicated to sustainable practice and has helped restore rainforests and protect endangered species in India, Indonesia, Vietnam, and Malaysia. Though The Body Shop offers a huge variety of luxurious moisturisers, you can’t go past the classic Cocoa Butter Body Butter. It’s made from fair trade cocoa beans and enriched with Community Trade coconut oil. With this combo, it provides 48-hour ultra-rich moisture, which is perfect for dry skin.

Though a bit more expensive, Lush’s wide range of moisturisers are totally worth the investment. The Charity Pot Hand and Body Lotion is made from nourishing Fair Trade olive oil, Colombian cocoa butter, and Shea butter, but most notably with every purchase, 100% of the price is donated to small, grassroots organisations.

Exfoliating scrub

Frank Body is a cruelty-free brand that offers a range of natural vegan body scrubs. They are made from coffee grounds which will have your skin feeling refreshed and full of life.

Deodorant

Lush offers a range of handmade deodorant powders and solid deodorant blocks. They use natural ingredients such as bicarb soda, cream of tartar, and essential oils.

Schmidt’s Naturals makes award-winning certified cruelty-free and vegan deodorants that come in a range of packaging and scents.

Shaving cream

Lush offers a range of shaving bars and creams that will help you achieve that perfect, smooth shave every time.

You can also double-up your conditioner as shaving cream, or even use coconut oil!

Soap

Dr Bronner’s all-in-one soaps are biodegradable and vegan. Gentle and versatile, they can be used for washing body, face or hair!

Perfume

For perfume, Lush has you covered. Not only do they smell amazing, but their design is on point! They have a range of both solid and liquid perfumes in bottles so cute, you’ll have to repurpose them when they’re finished! All their perfumes are 100% cruelty-free and vegan.

Pacifica offers a range of paraben-free perfumes made from natural essential oils in roll-on, solid, and liquid varieties. For more classic scents like vanilla and musk, and some delicious fragrance mist options, hop back onto The Body Shop.

For a heady scent without the hefty price tag, why not try and make your own perfume? You can make solid perfume with just 3 ingredients!

The takeaway here is that going cruelty-free and natural doesn’t need to break the bank. There are even some products you can make at home that are much better than anything you’ll find in a shop  – and with much less waste too! Go forth and conquer, cruelty-free babes!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Cruelty-Free Hair & Skincare on a Budget appeared first on Good On You.

Since 1966, Miss Selfridge has grown from humble beginnings as the youth section of Selfridge’s department store to being one of the UK’s best known high street labels boasting over 250 standalone stores worldwide.

Miss Selfridge is owned by Arcadia Group, who also own Topshop, Topman and Dorothy Perkins. In its 2017 Arcadia Group Fashion Footprint report, the group states that it is “committed to sustainability” and aims to “produce fashionable products in a responsible and ethical way”. But is this really the case? We take a look at how Miss Selfridge rates when it comes to their treatment of people, the planet and animals and ask How ethical is Miss Selfridge?

Environmental Rating

Miss Selfridge is a member of the Better Cotton Initiative, which promotes more sustainable means of producing cotton that requires less water and pesticides. In the 2017 Arcadia Group Fashion Footprint report, the group also set a greenhouse gas emissions target, however, it doesn’t specify whether it relates to its direct operations or its supply chain.

What’s more, the report mentions a number of sustainability initiatives that have been implemented, including improving the efficiency of its transport, recycling and energy consumption in its head offices, distribution centres and stores.

So why do we say it’s Not Good Enough? Well, the brand doesn’t address clothing manufacturing, which is the biggest contributor to the group’s carbon footprint. Not one of the sustainability targets mentioned in the report relate to the use of eco-friendly materials or reducing carbon emissions down its supply chain.

Unfortunately, there is also no evidence that it has taken any meaningful action to eliminate the use of hazardous chemicals or reduce water usage.

So despite undertaking a few sustainability initiatives, at the end of the day, Miss Selfridge’s fast fashion business model is inherently unsustainable. As a brand that creates large quantities of low-quality, cheap, resource-intensive and on-trend clothes, Miss Selfridge cannot improve its score in this area until it starts to use more eco-friendly materials and reduces its use of dangerous chemicals in the manufacturing stage.

Labour Rating

Arcadia Group, who own Miss Selfridge, received an overall score of ‘C+’ in the 2018 Australian Ethical Fashion Report, the same score it received in the previous years’ report. This suggests that in the space of a year, the Arcadia Group has done little to improve its ethical standards when it comes to labour rights. What’s more, while the Arcadia Group signed the Bangladesh Fire and Safety Accord, it only did so after months of pressure from advocacy groups.

Although the group received the top score of ‘A+’ for it’s labour policies and code of conduct in the report, they are not applied across it’s whole supply chain. In addition, while Arcadia Group can trace and monitor all of its suppliers at the final manufacturing stage, it can only trace between 1-25% of suppliers at the raw materials and inputs stages. However, the group has implemented measures to trace its suppliers and countries of origin at all levels of the supply chain, which is a promising move. The Arcadia Group publicly lists some of its suppliers at the final production stage, and only audits some of its supply chain at the final manufacturing stage.
The group also has few worker empowerment initiatives in place and does not pay its workers a living wage at any stages of manufacturing.

Miss Selfridge should improve its transparency surrounding its labour practices. The brand could start by releasing information about how it monitors the factories its products are sourced from, tracing its suppliers at all stages, making a public list of those suppliers and the countries of origin of its products, and most importantly, paying all its workers a living wage.

Animal Welfare

Miss Selfridge does not use fur, angora, or exotic animal fur or skin, which is great, however it does use leather, wool and down without specifying sources. This is problematic as the welfare of workers or animals cannot be guaranteed if the source is unknown.

Miss Selfridge could improve its score by being more transparent about where it sources its materials, or even better, by not using any animal products at all.

Overall Rating

Overall we rate Miss Selfridge ‘Not Good Enough’ based on information from the 2018 Ethical Fashion Report and our own research.

Despite undertaking a few vague initiatives such as setting a non-specific greenhouse gas emissions target, starting a project to improve wages in part of its supply chain (though not specifying how this will be implemented), Miss Selfridge still has a lot of room for improvement in all areas. The brand could start improving its score by setting a specific greenhouse gas emissions target across its operations and supply chain, eliminating toxic dyes, solvents and pesticides during the manufacturing process, incorporating more eco-friendly and cruelty-free materials into its products, improving transparency about its suppliers and implementing a living wage across its supply chain.

See the rating.

Why not ditch Miss Selfridge and invest your money in well-made, fair and cruelty-free pieces  from these brands rated ‘Good’ or ‘Great’ on the Good On You app?

The post How Ethical Is Miss Selfridge? appeared first on Good On You.

A growing number of consumers are realising the significant ethical and environmental impacts of the modern fur industry, putting pressure on brands to go fur-free. In the past six months alone, a slew of designer brands including Versace, Gucci, Jimmy Choo, Furla, John Galliano, Donna Karan, Tom Ford and Michael Kors have announced that they are no longer using fur in their lines. What’s more, San Francisco has recently become the largest U.S. city to ban the sale of fur. Although real fur is on the way out, faux fur is quickly rising up to take its place. From coats, to shoes, to keychains, designer and fast fashion brands alike have jumped on the faux fur bandwagon.

What is faux fur made from?

A growing body of evidence also points to the significant environmental impact of microfibres, the microscopic plastic particles that shed from synthetic garments every time they are washed. This poses a huge problem for our ocean life, which is ingesting these plastic fibres. It’s also a threat to human health as we consume these sea animals (and the plastic inside them!) According to a 2016 study, synthetic jackets released an average of 1,174 milligrams of plastic microfibers when washed!

If you already own synthetic garments, Patagonia sells a laundry bag that helps trap the plastic microfibres that are released from your clothes every time you wash them.

Faux fur isn’t always fake

In a disturbing new trend, real fur is actually being passed off as faux fur to unknowing shoppers. In 2016, an investigation by the charity Humane Society International UK uncovered that some products labelled as “faux” fur products from British high street stores Missguided and House of Fraser were found to actually found to be made from real fur after they were tested by a fibres expert. The sad truth behind this scandal is that there is so much fur being produced under terrible conditions in countries such as China that it’s actually cheaper to produce and buy than faux fur. While some companies who are wanting to increase their profit margin might be falsely labelling their garments to deceive shoppers, often sellers are unaware that their products contain real fur.

The fast fashion problem

The main issue with faux fur is that it’s a trend that has been well and truly hijacked by the unsustainable and unethical fast fashion industry. Focused on fleeting styles made from poor quality materials using cheap labour, fast fashion brands prioritise profit over people, the planet and animals. There has been no shortage of faux fur items on the market – from jackets in every colour, to fur-lined loafers and fluffy keychains. In a week’s time, these styles will be replaced by new ones, creating a never-ending demand for new, ‘on-trend’ products.

So what are the ethical alternatives?

1. Buy less, buy quality, buy timeless

At Good On You we believe the old adage that less is more. Before buying a faux fur garment, ask yourself if you really need or want it. A helpful way to answer this question is to calculate the cost-per-wear of the garment:

Cost-per-wear = Total cost of the item x estimated number of days you’ll wear it

For example, if you buy a faux fur coat for $100 and wear it once a fortnight for a year, the cost-per-wear comes to about $3.85. On the other hand, if you only end up wearing that $100 coat once or twice, the total cost-per-wear is very pricey!

We also recommend that you focus on buying a high-quality garment.  A 2016 study conducted by Patagonia showed that these produce fewer microfibres than cheaper quality materials. Finally, rather than buying into the fleeting trends of fast fashion that want you to keep buying their products, consider opting for a timeless piece over something that will probably be passé in a month’s time.

2. Buy second hand

There are no shortage of fake (and real) second hand fur garments on the market. Check out your nearest thrift store, vintage boutique, second hand market, eBay, Etsy, as well as a number of other online second hand retailers that have sprung up in recent years. Buying second hand not only significantly decreases your carbon footprint, as no new resources are being consumed, but it’s often great for your bank account too!

3. Buy ethical alternatives

You don’t have to buy real or faux fur to make a bold statement with your outfit. Check the free Good On You app for brands that make awesome wearables from eco materials.

Learn more about sustainable and ethical materials.

The post What’s The Problem With Faux Fur? appeared first on Good On You.

All across the world, in more than 100 countries, fashion lovers will be asking their favourite brands ‘Who Made My Clothes’ on social media and taking part in some of the many talks, clothes swaps and the many film screenings and events there are to choose from.

Last year more than two-and-a-half million people got involved in Fashion Revolution week. It’s quite simply the biggest week in the calendar for ethical fashion.

This year is particularly special. It’s exactly five years since the devastating Rana Plaza Factory collapse in Bangladesh that was the catalyst for Fashion Revolution. Many of us will be looking back on how far our movement has come, and the real change that’s starting to happen in the industry.

Over the past year especially, we’ve seen a massive increase in the conversations around these issues. A growing number of brands are taking steps to improve their sustainability and transparency, more celebrities are taking on the Green Carpet Challenge and Vogue Australia published their first ever sustainability issue, featuring Good On You!

Despite all these wins, there’s still much progress to be made. Change doesn’t happen overnight, and every little bit counts toward achieving that end goal of a more sustainable, transparent and ethical fashion industry.

Want to get involved? Here are five things you can do this week to be a part of the Revolution!

1. Join the conversation on social media

Use the hashtag #whomademyclothes to call out a brand, inform others about ethical issues in the fashion industry and to feature your favourite brands that are already doing the right thing by people, the planet and animals.

2. Read a book or buy a copy of Issue 2 of the Fashion Revolution fanzine

Educate yourself (and others) about the problems faced by the fashion industry by picking up one of these fantastic reads, including Elizabeth Cline’s Overdressed and Clare Press’ Wardrobe Crisis. Another recent title is Slave to Fashion, written by People Tree  founder Safia Minney, which looks at how both consumers and brands can help eradicate slave labour in the fashion industry.

If you prefer to read in small bites, why not pick up the latest issue of the bi-annual Fashion Revolution fanzine? LOVED CLOTHES LAST explores the huge issue of waste and overconsumption in the fashion industry, and includes a jam-packed 124 pages of poetry, illustration, photography, infographics, articles, tips and interviews with leaders of the circular fashion movement as well as leading innovators in textile recycling.

3. Attend a FRW event

From the 23rd-29th of April, there are scores of great events being held across the globe, including workshops, film screenings and talks. Highlights include a ‘Who Made My Activewear’ Panel and Pop-up shop in London, an Eco Fashion Expo in New York, a film screening in Adelaide an Open Studio in Shanghai to name just a few. Check out what’s happening near you!

4. Help educate others by getting involved in the campaign

Fashion Revolution has created a number of educational resources for all ages in English, Portuguese and Polish that you can use in the classroom or even just among your friends. You can design a Fashion Revolution Week poster, play a Fashion Ethics Trump Card Game or take a quiz! The materials cover a number of issues within the fashion industry, including globalisation, workers’ rights, supply chain transparency, material sourcing, global citizenship, sustainable development and ethical business practices. Register here to access the free educational resources.

If you’re a uni student, you can apply to become a Fashion Revolution Student Ambassador to organise a FRW event on campus. UK students can email educationfashionrevolution.org telling them the name of your university, your course and why you want to be part of Fashion Revolution. If you are not in the UK, you can contact the Country Coordinator in your country by filling out this contact form.

5. Contact a brand using the Good On You app

Want to let a brand know that you’re not happy with the way they treat people, the planet and animals? You can contact them using the Good On You app. Just download the free app, search for the brand, go to the ‘Your Voice’ section, and write a message that will be sent directly to the brand.

The post 5 Things You Can Do This Fashion Revolution Week appeared first on Good On You.

In light of the launch of a very special sustainability edition of Vogue Australia, we’ve picked our top five favourite moments that Emma Watson slayed as an eco-fashion queen!

When she worked with stylists on the set of Beauty and the Beast to create eco-friendly costume designs.

The 2017 live-action remake of Disney’s Beauty and the Beast not only put a modern spin on the ‘tale as old as time’, it completely revolutionised costume design.  Emma, who was cast as Belle, brought her passion for ethical fashion to the film, collaborating with Oscar-winning costume designer Jacqueline Durran and consultancy Eco-Age to create stunning pieces made from eco-friendly and recycled materials.  About 75% of the materials used in the costumes were from sustainable sources and Belle’s red cape (above) — made from 100% sustainable or vintage materials — really stole the show.

But Emma didn’t stop there — partnering up with her stylist Rebecca Corbin-Murray, she wore ethically-made pieces to every single one of her press tours for the film. She launched her Instagram account The Press Tour to document her outfits as well as her favourite beauty products which are verified by eco-beauty and wellbeing store Content.

When she collaborated with pioneering UK ethical fashion label People Tree, for a series of collections aimed at younger people.

Emma’s relationship with People Tree goes way back to 2009, when the young actor added her creative flare to several of their Fair Trade, organic collections.  Emma not only helped design the clothes, she travelled to Bangladesh to see them being made first-hand.  “I think young people like me are becoming increasingly aware of the humanitarian and environmental issues surrounding fast fashion and want to make good choices but there aren’t many options out there,” she told the Guardian.

When she wore an upcycled, all-black outfit to the 2017 Golden Globes as part of the #Times Up campaign against sexual harassment and sexism in the entertainment industry…

…and took Marai Larasi as her date! Larasi is the Executive Director of Imkaan, a UK-based organisation that prevents and responds to violence against marginalised women, and a co-chair of the End Violence Against Women Coalition.

When she wore a custom dress made from recycled plastic bottles to the 2016 Met Gala Ball.

While others chose to wear glitzy, futuristic dresses in line with the theme ‘Manus x Machina’, Emma thought outside the box.  A joint collaboration between Calvin Klein and Eco-Age, the gorgeous black and white ensemble she wore was made mostly from Newlife — a yarn spun from 100% post-consumer plastic bottles — as well as organic cotton, silk and recycled silver hardware. However, Emma’s outfit was not just sustainable, it was also versatile: the bustier and pants could be detached, providing endless looks that could be worn over and over again. Now that’s innovative!

When she graced the pages of the March 2018 issue of Vogue Australia wearing outfits rated by us!

We’re thrilled to collaborate on the March issue of Vogue Australia, dedicated to sustainability and positive change. We helped ensure the ethical cred of the labels Emma wears and recommends in the issue.

Vogue Australia editor-in-chief Edwina McCann said, “This issue is an opportunity for Vogue to highlight all the positive work and impact that so many extraordinary trailblazers are already having on our environment — changing our thinking and behaviours in the process. It was also a chance to spotlight some of the issues that still need acknowledging, areas in which we can all make improvements to help make the world a more equal, accepting, sustainable and kind place. Who better to lead us in that direction than Emma Watson?”

The March issue of Vogue Australia hit shelves on Monday 26 February 2018. For more information, head to www.vogue.com.au.

The post 5 Times Emma Watson Was An Ethical Fashion Queen appeared first on Good On You.

The number one problem most people face when it comes to ethical clothing is affordability. When you’re used to buying cheap $10 t-shirts, of course a $50 organic cotton, ethically-made tee is going to seem pricey in comparison. Shopping for ethical fashion doesn’t always need to be expensive. With a few of the following tips and tricks up your sleeve, you can have your cake and eat it too.

#1 – Look out for sales

Sign up to the newsletters of your favourite ethical brands. This way you can be the first to know about sales and special offers. Most brands also offer a one-time discount for first time customers.

#2 – Choose well, buy less

At Good On You we’re firm believers in the idea that less is more. Though cheap, poorly-made clothes may seem like a bargain at the time, often they fall apart after a few wears, are forgotten at the back of your wardrobe, or even end up in landfill.

When buying new clothes, it’s worth considering the cost-per-wear of the garment. For example, if you wear a pair of $95 Etiko sneakers three times a week over the course of a year, the cost-per-wear comes to around 60 cents per wear. A pair of sparkly stilettos that you bought for $30 and wore once are expensive in comparison! Investing in a small number of high-quality, ethically made pieces rather than a mountain of poorly-made, cheap clothes is not only better for the environment, garment workers and animals – in the long run, it’s great for your wallet as well!

#3 – Buy second-hand instead of new

Next time you need to fill in a gap in your wardrobe or are craving a bit of retail therapy, why not give the mall a miss and visit your local thrift store, charity shop or vintage markets to grab a second-hand bargain for a fraction of the original price. You can also find gorgeous second-hand pieces for sale on websites such as eBay, Gumtree and the Facebook Marketplace.

Clothes swapping is another sustainable way to source pre-loved fashion, and it can be pretty fun too! You can organise a swap yourself, or if you’re not the most organised fashionista, you can keep an eye on local community pages or check out meetup.com, a site that helps facilitate swaps around the world!

#4 – Shop your own wardrobe

Did you know that most women only use about 40% of the clothes in their wardrobe? The next time you catch yourself looking at your overstuffed wardrobe thinking that you have absolutely nothing to wear, a good clean-out might unearth some treasures that you forgot you had! Every season, go through your wardrobe and sort out clothes into 4 piles. Ones you want to keep, ones to donate, ones to tailor, and ones to sell. Save your profits or use them to invest in high-quality, ethical pieces that will last you a lifetime.

Need some guidance? Check out the KonMari method which revolves around the idea that the items you own should bring you joy, and if they no longer serve this purpose, they should be discarded from your life.

#5 – Get the Good On You app

The free Good On You app is your go-to for exclusive offers and discounts on ethical brands. Just download the app and check out the ‘Offers’ tab!

So, there you have it – five fantastic tips on how to be kind on your bank account while buying ethically! Do you have any tips to save money while shopping for ethical fashion? Let us know in the comments below!

The post 5 Tips on How to Save Money and Shop Ethically appeared first on Good On You.