What is Silk?

It was Chinese Empress Xi Lingshi who is credited with discovering this illustrious fabric. One fine day in 27th century BCE, the Empress was enjoying a cup of tea beneath the mulberry trees when a cocoon fell into her cup. As the cocoon began to unravel itself, the Empress admired the beauty of the shimmering threads. And so the legend goes that the young royal invented the reel and loom and began to teach the ladies of her court how to weave silk fabric.

Demand for silk established an ancient trade route through Asia, the Middle East, and Europe which became known as the Silk Road. The Chinese Imperialists realised the value of their export and kept the making process secret from the rest of the world. It wasn’t until 550 AD that the silk-making process reached the Roman Empire. The story goes that two sly monks, upon the orders of Roman Emperor Justinian, smuggled silkworm eggs in their walking canes, and hobbled all the way home to Constantinople.

So how did the Empress do it?

Silk is spun from the long threads which make up the inner cocoon of a silkworm. The fibres are in fact saliva, produced by the worm to insulate itself until it is time to transform. The raw silk threads are harvested and then reeled together for commercial use.

When done well, silk manufacturing can be a harmonious and low waste process. Silk worms keep a raw, gluten-free, dairy-free diet which consists entirely of mulberry leaves. The mulberry is a hardy tree, resistant to pollution and easy to cultivate. The tree bark has medicinal properties and the fruit can be used as a natural dye or to fill a pie. The leaves of the mulberry will feed the worms and the worms, in turn, can feed the farmers.

The silkworms are killed during the process of extracting the silk, but the pupae don’t go to waste. They are a rich source of protein, which makes them a popular snack across many Asian countries. The outer-cocoons are also used as fertiliser or to stuff pillows.

Chemicals may be used in the cleaning or degumming of the cocoon, so choose your silks carefully. Use the Good On You app to find the most reliable sources of silk, and look for labels that market undyed, unbleached or 100% naturally dyed silk.

What about the worms?

The bombyx mori (the mulberry silkworm) produces the bulk (around 90%) of commercial silk. Left to its own devices a silkworm moth that is ready to emerge will make a small hole in its cocoon through which to escape. This, however, breaks the long silk strands that make up the inner cocoon. Silk producers usually prefer to boil the cocoon (with the worm inside) so that the long strands remain intact.

Over time the mulberry silkworm has become domesticated. The moths cannot fly and they rely on human assistance to mate, so their ability to survive beyond the cocoon may be limited. Perhaps a snack of fried worm pupae might be considered ethical grub?

It is also possible to find less lethal alternatives to the silk-making process. Ahimsa silk, also known as ‘peace silk’, allows the moth to evacuate the cocoon before it is boiled. Some silks that fall under the Ahimsa umbrella include ‘Eri silk’ and ‘Tussar silk’.

Eri silk uses castor plant-fed domesticated silkworms that aren’t harmed during the production process. Tussar silkworms are truly wild, allowed to leave the cocoon before they are harvested from the forest. This brand of silk is popular in the Indian states of West Bengal and Bihar.

However, even Ahimsa silk isn’t without a level of cruelty, so if animal welfare is your main concern, opt for vegan alternatives.

Note that some companies also use ‘wild silkworms’ which means that the worms live in an environment that imitates their natural habitat – essentially they are free range. Wild silkworms produce more durable fabric, and the producers tend to use fewer chemicals, but may not be Ahimsa silks.

It is also important to know that while peace silk is better for the creatures who create it, it may not much better for the planet! Be sure to choose OTEX-certified organic silk, or ahimsa silk by Cocccon which is GOTS-certified, to ensure you also have the environment in mind.

What about the people?

The silk industry – also known as sericulture – provides employment to rural populations, with around one million workers in China and 7.9 million workers in India. In some parts of India sericulture has been an important enterprise for developing communities, and particularly for the empowerment of women. However, in 2003, Human Rights Watch reported the abuse of child slaves in the Indian silk industry. The report estimated that some 350,000 children work in the silk industry, “Boiling cocoons, hauling baskets of mulberry leaves, and embroidering saris.”

Silk in the 21st century

Under pressure from consumers and animal welfare groups like PETA, ASOS has recently decided to stop using silk by the end of January 2019. A huge step for the fast growing retailer, ahead of others companies like Zara, H&M and GAP that are only starting to ban mohair.

New technologies are also helping create new and better alternatives to silk. Bolt Threads launched its first commercial spider silk. But the company does not use spider in the process. In fact, the thread is made from yeast, water, and sugar. The raw silk is produced through fermentation, much like brewing beer, except instead of the yeast turning the sugar into alcohol, they turn it into the raw stuff of spider silk. This innovative material is both strong and flexible and could be used in everything from bulletproof vests and biodegradable water bottles to shoes and flexible bridge suspension ropes. The brand has even recently announced a partnership with British ethical designer Stella McCartney and outdoor wear brand Patagonia!

So when it comes to buying silk or its alternatives, use the Good On You ethical shopping app to ensure that you don’t buy into exploitation.

Here are some of our favourite ethical silk brands:

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Label: Polyester

Polyester is a type of plastic. It’s used to make seatbelts, carpets, fish netting and of course, clothes. The demand for polyester today is immense because it is so cheap. Polyester is derived from petroleum, which makes it an accessory to the world’s most polluting industries. The good news is that polyester is durable. If you’re in the market for something cheap and long-lasting, look for recycled polyester garments with the Global Recycle Standard certification or breathe new life into pre-loved clothes from your local clothing op-shop.

Label: Lycra

It’s stretchy, it’s fun, it’s Olivia Newtown John circa 1981. Lycra may be an iconic fabric but it doesn’t stretch far on the ethical side of things. What you may not know is that Lycra is a brand. The material itself is called spandex, and it is made from a polyester or nylon base.

You might also recognise the sister brands to Lycra such as Cordura. These labels often appear on your swimwear, rain coats, denim or undies. Aside from being synthetic materials, there is another reason that you might think twice before buying into these brands.

Lycra, Cordura, Supplex, Tactel, Thermolite, Coolmax – they all belong to the same controversial corporation, called ‘Invista’. Invista is a subsidiary of Koch Industries, whose production ranks among America’s top 30 environmental polluters. The owners, Charles and David Koch, have also invested millions of dollars into climate change denial and blocking greenhouse gas cuts.

Label: Vegan leather

The spirit of veganism is cruelty-free. However, many ‘vegan-leathers’ don’t take the environment into account. Synthetic leather is usually made from PVC or polyurethane plastic (PU), both of which have been linked to carcinogenic substances. This puts the wearers and the makers of these fabrics at risk.

Beyond the production line, even washing these fabrics can cause harm. When we wash synthetic materials they release plastic microfibres into the ocean, damaging marine habitats. So, if you want to protect the creatures of both the sea and the land, look for natural fibre leathers. You can find eco-friendly vegan leathers made out of pineapple leaves (Piñatex), paper, cork or areca palm.

Label: Viscose rayon

Developed as an alternative to silk, rayon is soft, fragile and highly absorbent. It is commonly used in home textiles, linens, sponges and garments which drape such as blouses and gowns. Rayon is derived from wood pulp. The wood pulp is treated with caustic soda and carbon disulphide, and this mixture is then filtered and spun into a fine thread. This is a highly polluting process and releases many toxic chemicals into the environment. However, you can find a less chemically intensive version of rayon called Modal Rayon. See our Viscose material guide for more information on the sustainability of the material.

Label: Nylon

Nylon was the world’s first totally synthetic fibre. The fabric is derived from carbon chemicals which are heated and spun into individual fibres. This makes nylon both stretchy and extremely tough. Emerging in the period of World War II, this adventurer’s plastic worked its way into military parachutes, rope and tents. Today, nylon is used to make swimwear, sportswear, leggings and more. Like polyester, however, nylon production is an energy, water and chemical intensive process.

So, what now?

Look for recycled options like Econyl

Econyl is made with rescued synthetic waste. Nylon plastic waste (fabric, industrial waste, fishing nets and fluff) is reclaimed by their international collection network, then cleaned, regenerated, and processed into carpet or textile yarn.

Econyl’s parent company, Aquafil, are committed to minimising energy and water use and promoting innovative research. Econyl is used by Good and Great rated brands such as: Elle Evans, Woron, Adidas and Outerknown.

Keep informed!

There are complex facts to consider whenever we shop for clothing. By purchasing a vegan leather jacket you may be saving a cow’s hide, but if you take into account the environmental impact of these man-made fabrics, it seems like a double-edged sword. But keeping informed is the first step in every ethical fashionista’s journey as it allows you to make more mindful decisions.

Natural fabrics: a sustainable alternative?

Fibres that come from nature, such as hemp, are often touted as an eco-friendly alternative to man-made synthetics. But increased demand for these fabrics requires increased use of these natural resources, so are they really any better? In the next article in this series, we’ll be breaking down everything you need to know about your favourite ‘natural fabrics’.

Learn more about sustainable and ethical materials.

The post Label Lingo: Everything You Need to Know about Synthetic Fabrics appeared first on Good On You.

This is the Good On You guide to fashion and fabric that’s so good you could eat it.

1. Leather alternatives

The leather jacket may be iconic, but the impacts of the industry are concerning. It’s not always easy to see the connection between rainforest destruction and those on-trend leather pants. However, massive tracts of the Amazon and other precious rainforest are cleared each year to produce beef and leather products. This has led celebrities such as Sir Richard Branson, and Leonardo DiCaprio to call for a ‘Ban on Beef’.

The leather-tanning process is also a risky business. Heavy metals used in the tanning process are decimating waterways throughout countries like China, India, and Bangladesh.

But this doesn’t mean you have to avoid that staple jacket, handbag or pair of boots. Some ‘leathers’ are more considerate of our environment, climate, and our cows. The following foodie initiatives use natural ingredients to create ethical, vegan leather alternatives.

Piñatex

Innovative company Ananas Anam has replaced cows with pineapples! Dr. Carmen Hijosa developed Piñatex fabric using pineapple leaf fibres. Pineapple leaves are a by-product of the pineapple harvest and are often left to simply decompose. Now they’re being giving a brand new life and the process also creates an extra source of income for farming communities.

Kombucha

Kombucha tea has long been seen as an elixir used for its alleged digestive benefits. The jelly used to brew the drink – called a Symbiotic Colony Of Bacteria and Yeast or SCOBY – always seemed like a useless by-product. That is until scientists and designers alike started combining their talents to create a biodegradable vegan leather from the kombucha SCOBY. A new breed of fashion was grown!

Fruit leather

If probiotic jelly isn’t your thing, a Rotterdam-based collective of designers have crafted a leather made from leftover fruits. According to their research, around 3,500 kilograms of fruit and vegetables are thrown away on a single day at one of the outdoor markets in and around Rotterdam.

These graduates of the Willem de Kooning Academie in Holland decided to collect the unsold fruit from their local farmers’ markets. They then de-seed, puree, boil and dry the fruit out into thin leather sheets. From this, they create stylish pumpkin-strawberry handbags and peach lampshades!

2. Silk alternatives

Did you know that silk is actually saliva? Silkworms produce saliva to insulate themselves inside their cocoons. Farmers harvest the raw silk threads and reel them together for commercial use, killing the silkworms in the process. Sometimes harsh chemicals may be used in the cleaning or degumming of the cocoon.

While it is certainly possible to source silk material that’s sustainable and cruelty-free, it never hurts to have some alternatives up your sleeve!

Orange fiber

Another juicy start-up can be found in Italy. Sicilian-born Adriana Santanocito has created a soft, sustainable textile out of citrus waste. Orange Fiber aims to put the 700,000 tonnes of waste created by the orange juice industry to good use! Winner of an Ideas for Change Award from the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe, Orange Fiber plans to launch their products by the end of 2016.

Qmilk

Every year in Germany 1.9 million tonnes of raw milk, unsuitable for human consumption, goes to waste. German company Qmilch has come up with a way to create something positive from a wasteful industry. Qmilch’s founder Anke Domaske developed a biodegradable, chemical-free fibre using milk waste.

According to their website, they “pay attention to the sustainable animal husbandry of their suppliers”. We at Good On You would encourage Qmilch to make more detailed information on this publicly available. Creating the fabric is remarkably efficient – 1 kilogram of fibre takes just 5 minutes to make and uses a maximum of 2 litres of water.

Banana stalks

Banana fibres have been a part of clothing production since 13th Century Japan when they were used to make kimonos and samurai robes. In the tropical regions of the Asia-Pacific, bananas continue to be a source of natural fabric.

Around a billion tonnes of banana plant stems are wasted each year, despite research indicating that it would only take 37kg of stems to produce a kilogram of fibre

Farmers strip the stalks of the banana plant and then boil and spin the fibre until they resemble something like bamboo fibre. It’s heartening to see another untapped resource starting to be put to good use!

3. Nylon alternatives

Nylon is found in a wide variety of products, from underwear and hosiery to toothbrushes, umbrellas, knits, swimwear and activewear. It’s that percentage on the label meaning your stockings will stay stretchy and your yoga pants will be skin tight.

Unfortunately, nylon is a type of plastic derived from crude oil that’s put through an intensive chemical process. No form of nylon is biodegradable and manufacturing nylon is a very energy-hungry process. So let’s look at two potential food-based substitutes!

Coffee grounds

Coffee is not just a beverage – for many of us, it’s a way of life. But the innovative team at Singtex have taken this one step further and learned how to spin coffee into cloth. By combining coffee grounds with recycled plastic bottles, Singtex has created an eco-friendly fabric. S.Café technology keeps the material waterproof and odour-free – perfect for outdoor enthusiasts.

Coconut husks

Coconut is a gift from the heavens. We drink it, milk it, dry it, squeeze it and, of course, ice-cream-it. Now this most versatile of fruits can be used to protect us from the elements. Textile technology company 37.5 (named after the average person’s ideal body temperature) developed the Cocona fabric. Derived from the fibrous outer layer of a mature coconut, Cocona is flexible, comfortable and temperature smart. This means you’ll stay cooler when it’s warm and warmer when it’s cool – perfect for activewear.

These are just a few examples of how food waste can be repurposed into sustainable, cruelty-free fabrics. You can use the Good On You app to find even more tasty brands.

Learn more about sustainable and ethical materials.

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